English Blog - EBC-Trek 2025

 

Right now, I'm sitting in my hotel room in Kathmandu, finishing up a few last little things before I go to sleep. One of them is uploading the program as a PDF to my website. Et voilà, you can find it here
The first blog post will be coming soon, so for now, it's time to sleep. As to inform you, the english blog will be the german blog translated by google translate. I hope you still like to read it :)

Wednesdays, 2nd of April - Kathmandu Airport

 I've been in Nepal for 2.5 days now and haven't had the inspiration to start my blog yet. I've been sitting at the airport in Kathmandu for 2 hours now and thought I had plenty of time to start the blog of all blogs.


My trip began on Sunday, March 30th, with a farewell at the airport. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but it was still anything but great, saying goodbye to your better half and knowing you wouldn't see each other again for another two months.

Security checks went smoothly, and I was soon on the airport tram for non-European flights. There, I happened to run into Nora Häuptle, surely a household name among women's soccer fans, and chatted with her briefly. Then I went to the gate, where my plane was already waiting. Before boarding, an unfamiliar number tried to reach me, and to be honest, I wasn't in the mood for any kind of solicitation call, so I ignored my cell phone. Shortly afterwards, the phone rang again, so I answered it. A gentleman was on the other end and asked me to go to the counter at the gate because they had a problem. There, I learned that they had lost one of my pieces of luggage and would do everything they could to find it. Luckily, I had bought AirTags for my trip to Manaslu last year, which I had also put back in my bags. This quickly helped me figure out that one piece of luggage was somewhere in the airport's catacombs, and the other was on a plane at a different gate. Now it was up to the airport staff to reunite my luggage.
 

Meanwhile, I boarded the plane and settled into my seat. Suddenly, no new passengers arrived, which surprised me a little, since there seemed to be many more people at the gate than I saw on the plane. I asked a flight attendant if boarding was over and if they had found my bag. She referred me to the supervisor, who said there was a technical problem, and that's why they had stopped boarding.  

She asked the desk if they had located my luggage yet, but didn't get a real answer. So I waited in my seat and enjoyed the sun. Boarding soon resumed, the doors closed, and we headed towards the runway. Shortly before takeoff, the supervisor appeared and informed me that my luggage had been found. My app showed me that a piece of luggage was now in Flims, but "found" doesn't necessarily mean that it's on my plane. I wasn't too worried, though, because I couldn't change the situation until we got to Doha. So I enjoyed the empty row, a portion of pasta, a documentary about Céline Dion and an English mountaineer until we landed in Doha.
 

There I had 1.5 hours for the security check and the walk to the next gate, where I could ask at the desk whether both pieces of luggage had arrived. The nice man at the counter said that all the luggage was certainly there without having to check the computer, so although I didn't have any more information about my luggage, I did have information that I could board the plane using the fast track business class. So a short time later I sat in a window seat again and watched another film, this time about the start of the research into the Epstein articles, since it was still night outside. When I had to go to the bathroom a short time later, I realized that it wasn't night, but that the windows were tinted to keep it dark. So I changed my seat so that I would be ready for the view that would surely present itself to me sooner or later. I had specifically chosen the window seat on the left because that's where you can see the 8,000-meter peaks. I saw some beautiful mountains like Annapurna, Dhaulaghiri, and Manaslu, which I had just climbed. Unfortunately, Everest is behind Kathmandu from the approach route, so I was denied a view of my favorite mountain. 
 

After landing, I went to immigration, which I had already completed online, but unfortunately, I selected something incorrectly, so I had to fill it out again. It took an extra five minutes, but since I knew I'd have to wait for my luggage anyway, it didn't really matter to me.

My luggage arrived very late indeed, but both bags were there, and a short time later, I was already outside with Phunuru and Chirring, who were waiting for me in the arrivals hall. Since a trekker was due to arrive 30 minutes later, whom Phunuru also wanted to pick up, we decided to wait together. Unfortunately, the pilot of the Air India flight in question didn't land and circled over Kathmandu for half an hour before returning to India, where he had to refuel. That meant waiting two hours for nothing, but I didn't mind because we were able to chat in peace. Afterward, Chirring and I drove to the hotel, where the first thing I did was unpack my bags. I wanted to get everything ready for the material check, which would take place sometime in the next few days.  

Afterwards, I went to the lobby where I met Allan again, whom I met on Manaslu. He's with a trekking group to EBC, which I'll be able to join if there's space on the same plane. I also organized a Nepalese SIM card so I'd have some reception in Khumbu, and then I went to Thamel to get a few things that were on my shopping list: disinfectant as a backup, prayer flags, and water. I also couldn't leave my credit card in my pocket at the Everest Outfit store when I saw they finally had a jacket in my size, which was always sold out when I wanted to buy it. I was also able to do the gear check afterward, and it seems I'd thought of everything.

Back at the hotel, I met two or three people from Allan's group and had dinner with them right away on the hotel terrace. At 9 p.m., I finished work; after a free night on the plane, it was time to sleep.  

Yesterday, I woke up after 11 a.m., ready for my first meeting with Lakpa, the administrative head of 14peaks, where I was able to embed my expedition. Later that day, I would also receive two duffle bags, two buffs, a sun hat, and a jacket. Since I didn't know when Chirring would bring the gear, I used the time to update my website and enjoy the sunshine. It's over 30 degrees Celsius in Kathmandu, perfect for soaking up some long-awaited warmth before winter sets in again. I bumped into Sonam there by chance, who works as a server in the terrace restaurant. She was so happy to see me yesterday. She had been there every time we ate at the restaurant on previous expeditions. Today, she was so worried about my expedition that she even started to cry. Once again, I felt sorry that my expedition was causing suffering for others, even though I was actually doing something positive for myself. Once again, I reiterated my promise that I would return safely.  

I also packed my climbing duffel bag so someone could pick it up. Unfortunately, I forgot to bring the bag to the lobby, so it will probably arrive in Khumbu a bit later now. Not so bad, since I don't need the contents until base camp anyway.

In the afternoon, I had time to fulfill some family requests at the Everest Outfit Store and finally enjoy my almost obligatory massage. The lady wasn't very happy with my muscles and said I should come back tomorrow. We'll see how she feels about them in two months... There was also time for the Fire & Ice pizza, and then I strolled back to the hotel. There, I went to Sonam's restaurant one last time to say goodbye to her and also treated myself to a large slice of chocolate cake, even though I was still full after the pizza.  

It was already 10 p.m., and I still had to finish packing. I also managed to have a quick phone call with Raphael, who was with his parents, so it was more of a family call. Even though I was tired, I couldn't fall asleep for a while because I knew the trip would really, really begin the next day.

This morning, my phone woke me up at 5:45 a.m., because I wanted to take one last shower before heading into the mountains. Departure was scheduled for 7 a.m., and I felt a little embarrassed when I showed up in the lobby with my very heavy climbing duffel. Phunuru said it wasn't a problem if it was heavy, but my trekking duffel is now half empty and quite light. I probably made a bit too rigorous a decision. We'll see. 
 

There was enough time for a big breakfast, and by 8:30 a.m. we were already at the airport. And here I am, still sitting, having been here for 2.5 hours. The airport in Lukla is currently closed because there are too many clouds and smoke in the air. It seems there are a few fires en route, which obviously doesn't contribute to blue skies. One option would be to drive to Rahmecchap and try to fly from there tomorrow. The flight time is shorter, meaning the chance of being able to fly is higher. Another, slightly more expensive option would be a helicopter flight to Lukla. Phunuru and Allan will surely make the right decision. My role is to be patient, because whether I go to the mountains today or tomorrow doesn't matter. I'll spend plenty of time there 😊 

Thursday, 3rd of april - Kathmandu airport


 

 

Shortly after I uploaded my blog yesterday, things suddenly got a bit hectic. Allan and Phunuru asked us to pack our seven things together, as our plane was waiting to take us to Rhamecchap. So we hurried to pack everything in our backpacks and get out of the gate as quickly as possible. A bus was already waiting there, its engine running, and it left immediately after everyone was on board. Two of our group had just ordered coffee, which was too hot to drink right away.  

The bus took us directly to the small aircraft landing, where our SummitAir plane was parked. The attendant in charge told us to wait a little while in the bus until we could board. What we didn't know at the time was that we would be sitting on the bus for another 1.5 hours. We were still full of anticipation that we would at least be going to Rhamecchap, and in our minds we were probably already imagining ourselves on a plane to Lukla after lunch in Rhamecchap. We joked about how the seats were more comfortable than in the airport building, or that there were five people waiting for us at the plane. At some point we realized that even the "short wait" had turned into half an hour. It was getting warm, a little uncomfortable because we couldn't stretch our legs, and I also needed to go to the bathroom. Apparently we had to wait until three more planes had landed in Kathmandu, as there was only one runway used for both takeoffs and landings. Additionally, the space for the small aircraft was already full, so they had to park the planes somewhere between the proper parking spaces. And of course, without the wings touching. Typical Nepal, I'd say. Not just because of the parking chaos, but also because you sit somewhere for hours, suddenly have to rush somewhere else, only to sit there for hours again. At 1 p.m., we were finally allowed to get off the bus and onto the plane, and just 10 minutes later, we were in the air. The flight was mostly smooth, except for the flight computer that kicked in at the end. I heard it say "Pancake, Pancake, Pancake" a few times, followed by 500, 200, 50, 40, 30, 20, 10, with a long beep at the end a few seconds before landing. I wondered why the computer said "Pancake," then my thoughts wandered to teahouses and whether I often eat pancakes and whether I liked them. It wasn't until dinner that I realized the computer wasn't saying "Pancake," but "Pull up." It's always good to notice things like that later, so you don't have a chance to get scared :D
 

Back to landing. The airport was surprisingly quiet, unlike the last time I was here in 2023. No passengers, just a few guides sitting around looking bored. Since we hadn't eaten anything since our early breakfast, we had fried noodles for lunch right next to the airport. There was still a small chance that we might be able to fly on, so Allan and Phunuru weren't ready to leave the vicinity of the airport yet. This allowed us to enjoy our noodles in peace and refill our water supplies. Phunuru then went to the airport to ask if there were any more flights. Unfortunately, there wasn't much to discuss because the wind conditions in Lukla were too bad for flights. That meant we would spend the afternoon and night in Rhamecchap. There's a small resort with a pool here, which Phunuru had chosen. There were just enough rooms for all of us; I even had a single room as the only woman out of five. 
 

I spent the afternoon dangling my feet in the pool, reading and exchanging messages. By now I also had a headache from sitting so uncomfortable. The two Ama Dablam climbers also bombarded me with questions about my climb. The trekking group I was able to join consists of 12 Australians, three of whom will climb Lobuche East and two Ama Dablam. The rest are "only" doing the EBC trek. The two Ama climbers in particular were curious about how I did on Ama and were – I think – happy to be able to bombard me with questions. On the other hand, it's also nice for me to give them the information they're missing, which increases their anticipation even further. And somehow it was also nice to be on the other side for a change and share my experiences instead of asking questions. Once again, I realized how much I've learned and grown since my first trip to Nepal. 
 

At 6:30 p.m., there was a small but delicious buffet, where I even got two potato wedges because they were so crispy and well-seasoned. Afterward, we chatted a bit more until it was time for bed.

The bed in this so-called resort probably wouldn't be called a bed. It consists of a wooden frame and a mattress, but the mattress was just as hard as the wooden frame and therefore anything but comfortable for a side sleeper like me. So, I tried, more or less, to fall asleep on my back, ignoring the barking dogs outside and the few buzzing mosquitoes inside. I was too lazy to get my earplugs out of my backpack, so the whole night wasn't particularly restful. Wake-up call was at 4:35 a.m. anyway, because we were supposed to have breakfast at 4:50 a.m. I think I managed to get 2-3 hours of sleep, but I didn't feel rested at all. 
 

Breakfast arrived more or less on time, and shortly afterward, we were at security for a check. The lady didn't like my trekking poles, so I had to hand them over so they could be packed in my duffle bag. Like last time, there was no security at all for the men. They could just walk through with their backpacks. Now I'm sitting on a chair in the Ramacchap airport terminal again, waiting for the weather to improve enough for us to fly to Lukla. The wind there is perfect, but unfortunately, there are a lot of forest fires in Nepal at the moment, which is making the air quality extremely poor and resulting in poor visibility. 

Friday, 4th of april - Namche Bazar


 And again I was suddenly interrupted while writing this blog because someone had decided it was perfect flying weather. I packed everything as quickly as possible, looked for my boarding pass, and five minutes later we were standing at our plane. The four other planes that were still at the airport were already being boarded. We, however, were still standing in the field and watching the whole thing. One plane after the other taxied to the runway, and finally we were allowed to board. The propellers were already moving, and less than five minutes passed before we were taxiing off. We were the last of the five planes, and to be honest, the air still looked the same to me as it did at 6 a.m., except that it was already 10 a.m. The flight wasn't quite as smooth as I would have liked. We heard the pancake from the computer again shortly after takeoff in the same place, and there was a bit of turbulence. Luckily, nothing too bad, but I was still pleased when we landed safely in Lukla after about 15 minutes. When we thanked the pilot for the landing, he said that we were lucky. The wind was actually too strong (hence the turbulence), and he was certain that after the return flight to Ramecchap, he wouldn't be flying back to Lukla today. Shortly after, the plane took off again, its fuselage full of happy trekkers heading towards the valley. It was actually the last plane to land in Lukla yesterday. Two of the planes that had taken off before us turned back shortly after, so only 51 trekkers landed in Lukla that day. We, however, were all beaming because, apart from the fact that we were no longer stuck in Ramecchap, we would hardly encounter any other trekkers with the same schedule on the entire way to the EBC. This meant virtually empty roads for us for the next 10 days, and this during the peak season in the valley. 

We went to a teahouse to get a drink and repack a bit so we were ready for the trek. The porters took our duffle bags and filled our water bottles. We had about 4.5 hours of hiking ahead of us, first down to the river and then up and down the valley with countless stairs towards Monju. After about 2 hours, we stopped in Khat for a light lunch and then continued on to Monju until just before 6 p.m. There we were able to check into our rooms straight away, each with its own bathroom. We were all pretty tired from getting up early, waiting, and hiking. Only three of us already knew the trail; the rest didn't know what the trails would be like until we started in Lukla. They certainly looked tired and happy when I saw them again for dinner. I treated myself to fried eggs and fries, both of which were delicious. My second empty plate of the day, of which I am obviously very proud. Shortly after 8 p.m. I headed towards my sleeping bag, where I read a little before falling asleep, tired and happy. 

Today, reveille was at 7 a.m. I was awake earlier, though, because the walls are quite thin, so the kitchen and other room occupants can be heard quite clearly. The horses on the path outside were also quite audible, as they all wear lots of bells so their owners know where they are. So, I practically woke up to Christmas bells :D 

For breakfast, I had a perfectly sized cheese molette, so I can already boast about empty plate number three on the second day. So, eating isn't a problem yet. We'll see how long that lasts. Shortly after 8 a.m., we set off again. This time, the trail was fairly flat, first along the river to the entrance of the national park. Because they've changed the rules for this year, all luggage is now being opened and checked for anything illegal. Specifically, for a drone. Drone flights are prohibited throughout the national park without a permit. 

However, these permits are almost impossible to obtain. If they find a drone, it would be destroyed, leaving no chance of getting it back. Our group, however, consists of decent Aussies, so the search was unsuccessful, and we were able to move on after 10 minutes. I used those 10 minutes to look at the 3D model of the entire park that had been created a few years ago. It's a little broken, but I still found the way to Everest in seconds. The model that Claudine gave me for my birthday, which is waiting for me at home, probably helped. 

After the entrance to the national park, the trail initially descends steeply before my favorite part of the trail begins. Right next to the river, you walk north on beautiful trails, first on the left bank, then on the right, until you reach Hillary Bridge, the highest suspension bridge in all of Nepal. There, we stopped for the obligatory photos, and my Theos also got their paparazzi moment. 

 

Afterward, a trekker from another group asked me how much the Theos had paid for the trip. I didn't understand the question at first, but then I said they paid with hugs. He then laughed and asked if I knew there were companies that organized trips for stuffed animals. I think I found out about my unknown dream job in this beautiful place... ;) 

After the photo stop, there was only one direction: up, up, up. First, we headed up the right bank of the river over many steps to the bridge, then across the bridge, via switchbacks on hiking trails all the way to Namche. At the bridge, we had another short photo shoot with the group, alone, and we even did burpees and push-ups on the bridge. By me, I mean me and two girls who seem just as crazy as I am. And no, it was NOT my idea to do the fitness exercises on the bridge, I swear! 

 

About halfway up the climb, we took another break so no one would run out of energy. It was at this spot eight years ago that I first saw Everest. Unfortunately, it wasn't visible today due to the air quality, but I still had to recreate the photo from back then. 

Another hour of hiking later, we stood at the entrance to Namche. Those who have never seen this sight before can hardly imagine it. You come around a bend and all the houses are clinging to the hill. Prayer wheels of all colors shine out at you, a 10-meter-tall white stupa gazes back at you, and you can hear the fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags. Since we had booked a teahouse in the middle of the village, we walked straight into the center, and another 100 steps later, we were sitting in front of a plate of chips, fried rice, and fried noodles, along with a cup of hot tea. The entire hike took only 3 hours and 15 minutes, so we arrived just in time for lunch. Afterward, we checked into our rooms and followed Phunuru's recommendation to have cake and coffee at the Sherpa Barista Café next door. I ordered a chai latte and a small chocolate muffin and enjoyed both. Others ate huge slices of cake or even bigger apple pies, struggling with the portion size. Afterward, Josh and I walked around the village, bought another water bottle because one of my bottles was probably leaking, and found a cool, fluffy Ama Dablam sweater, which I'll probably buy tomorrow. First, I have to ask Phunuru how heavy my trekking duffel can be up to the EBC. 

Now I'm sitting back in the café with another chai latte, using the free Wi-Fi to write and update my blog. 

My legs are fit, I'm feeling good, and it's fun to be out and about with the group. I feel well looked after and am very grateful to Allan and Phunuru for arranging this. Just thinking about the fact that I would have had to wait four hours in Ramecchap on my own makes my gratitude immeasurable. 

Dinner is in 1.5 hours, and then I'm looking forward to going back to bed, as I'm still a little tired from the night off the day before yesterday. 

Saturday, 5th april - Namche Bazar

 

Unfortunately, dinner yesterday wasn't quite what I thought I'd ordered. I actually wanted fries, but I got fried potatoes. They were good, though, so I ate them anyway. Because we ate later than usual, everyone was ready for bed afterward. We just had to order breakfast so it wouldn't take too long to be ready the next day. I also went to bed early to finish reading my book. By 11 p.m. at the latest, I was fast asleep in my wonderful sleeping bag. For the trek, I chose the purple sleeping bag designed especially for me. It's still way too warm at the moment, but that will surely change soon. Sleeping in purple clothes is still better than lying in a red sleeping bag ;)
Breakfast today wasn't actually scheduled until 8 a.m. But by 6 a.m., everyone was obviously awake, as there was a lot of activity outside my room door. I stayed in my sleeping bag until 7:45 a.m. anyway, because I knew the dining room wasn't heated anyway. I also quickly repacked my backpack, since we didn't really need to take anything with us today, except for 1 liter of water, the rain gear that always has to be with us anyway, and a hat and thin gloves.

After breakfast (empty plate number 4), we set off at 9 a.m. toward Khunde to acclimatize. Khunde is about 400 meters higher than Namche and is a very quiet village. To get there, you first have to leave Namche and continue up the hill. This meant climbing hundreds of steps, some beautifully built from stone, or on natural paths. Every 30-40 minutes there was a drink break and time to enjoy the view. We could even see Ama through the smog, which once again amazed me how I could have even thought of climbing this mountain. I wonder if I'll ever fully understand why I was up there. In real life, it looks so much steeper than in the photos, and there it does look incredibly steep. I certainly enjoyed the view and also watched the two Ama climbers in our group. It was the very first time John had seen the destination in person. Mitch, the other climber, had already climbed Lobuche East a year ago and, while familiar with the view, looked at the mountain just as disturbed as John. I know exactly how they both feel and hope they'll enjoy their time on the mountain as much as I did in 2023. 

During the hike to Khunde, I tried to stay closer to the back of the group to ensure I was going slowly. This way, I save energy that I might need later, although at the moment it doesn't feel like I'm running low on energy.
On the way, we also walked through the Syangboche airport, which is still used for helicopter flights. Single-engine planes used to take off and land on the grass runway, and we all wondered what it must have looked like back then. We also visited the state-run yak farm, which is right next to the airport. Unfortunately, there were no baby yaks, but the big ones are actually kind of cuddly and fun to look at. After about 2.5 hours, we reached the beautifully designed village entrance, which is adorned with, among other things, a stupa. The walk to Dawa's sister's teahouse was also quickly completed, so we were soon sitting in the dining room in the calm. For lunch, we all had steamed momos with potatoes and salad. I skipped the momos and ate the salad instead. We'll see if that was a good idea; I think Dawa's sister knows what she's doing. We're certainly not the first group of Westerners to have lunch with her. After lunch, I drank a few more cups of tea before we headed back. We followed the same path to the airstrip, then turned left onto the steep and direct path to Namche. 

I tried to concentrate on the way down; after all, it would be really stupid if I injured myself or took a wrong step. The walk to the teahouse only took an hour, and when we got home, the first thing we did was order dinner. I then decided to buy an Ama Dablam hoodie at the center, which unfortunately they no longer had in the color I wanted. Since the shop owner happened to be a former student of Phunuru's at the Khumbu Climbing Center, I'll have the hoodie delivered to base camp in a few weeks :D The name Phunuru really opens a lot of doors here, because he seems to know everyone here. I enjoyed a black tea with chocolate cake in a café and then went back to the teahouse. There I changed into the comfortable and warmer teahouse clothes and now I'm sitting in the café next door again, drinking a chai latte. Dinner is in about 2 hours, and this time the fries should work out. Tomorrow the plan is to hike to Phortse, which is about the same altitude as Khunde. 

Monday, 7th of april - Pangboche

 

I'm currently sitting in the dining room of our lodge, enjoying the gentle warmth of the stove, which has just been lit. Two days have already passed since my last entry in Namche, during which we were on the road. On Saturday evening, after dinner, it was another early night watch. I scrolled through the results of the various puzzle championships and enjoyed the amazing new puzzles they had the opportunity to put together in Washington. It seems as if I'll have to place another large order from America soon...

I was able to sleep well again and packing up in the morning went faster. I was ready before breakfast at 7:30 a.m. and started drinking my black tea. As on every trek, my goal is to drink at least three cups of tea before we set off so that I can at least drink two liters by lunchtime. I chose veggie omelets to go with my black tea, as they are served hot here and are therefore not only edible but also quite good. Salt and pepper are always on the table, so you can add more seasoning if necessary. Sunday was a long day of hiking. About 11 km separated us from Phortse, our next destination and home of Phunuru and Mingma. First, we walked through Namche to the upper rim and then continued on a gentle climb with views of the various mountains around us. Unfortunately, the air quality is still not the best and the visibility gets worse as the day progresses . At the beginning you could still see quite a bit, and just 30 minutes outside of Namche, at the memorial for Hillary, I was able to enjoy my last, first glimpse of Everest. The funny thing is: I was the only one who noticed; everyone else in our group, and the other trekkers who took a break there, couldn't identify Everest or didn't even notice her. The view is always special to me, even if you could only guess at it through the haze. After that we continued on to Kyangjuma, where we took a snack break on the large terrace. The view would have been even better here, but the air quality is terrible. You can just make out Ama Dablam, but the view is completely different from the last time I saw it.

After this break, the turnoff to the panoramic trail soon followed. This meant that the Stairway to Heaven (or Hell) steps weren't far away. The steps are fairly freshly concreted, and there are plenty of opportunities for intermediate steps. Fortunately, they weren't built by giants, so the climb was somewhat bearable. The climb was once again worth it, as the view high above the path I'd always taken was unique. We continued uphill like this until we reached the village of Mongla. There, everyone was served ramen soup and fries. I ate more fries than soup, as I don't like the noodles and their taste. Nevertheless, I was able to slurp a bit of the soup and eat half the noodles. This strengthened us all for the last third of our hiking day. First, we had to descend 350 meters to the Imka Kola River so we could cross it. By the way, we'd been seeing Phortse getting closer for a while, and it probably wouldn't have taken 15 minutes if the river hadn't carved a valley between Monla and Phortse. Of course, after the bridge, we had to climb back up to Phortse, which added another 45 minutes to the walk. The village welcomed us with a colorful gate and thousands of Mani stones. 

Shortly before, we also spotted the endangered musk deer foraging in the silverbush forest. The silverbush trees are apparently just as rare as the animals themselves. The deer look like a deer with the head of a kangaroo, and the males have white tufts hanging down on the left and right sides of their mouths. They were obviously not very afraid of us, and the reason for this is that in Phortse they are not hunted but cared for. The many mani stones were created in Phunuru's grandfather's generation and frame the western edge of the village.
Since we were on the move rather early, we continued on to the Khumbu Climbing Center, or KCC for short, which has been housed in a new, earthquake-resistant building since 2019. Climbing Sherpas receive instruction there every January to prepare them for the high-altitude season. Locals also receive instruction throughout the year to expand their knowledge and thus improve the safety of Nepalese people on the mountains. Phunuru is one of the main instructors every year, always supported by various international mountain guides. Ever since I first heard about KCC, I've been dying to visit. It was all the more wonderful that we were able to take enough time for the visit and even enter areas normally reserved for instructors. There are hooks installed on the outside wall for climbing, and there's a bouldering wall inside.  

Upstairs there's a library with books for children and young people, and an entire room with books about Everest, the 8,000-meter peaks, and the Khumbu region. I saw books from 1921 and would have loved to fill my backpack and duffels with them. According to Phunuru, it's the highest climbing wall, the highest library, and also the most expensive library. That's because there are books there of which there are only a very few copies left in the world. There are also many hand-painted pictures of the mountains around Phortse and small information windows about the first ascent of Everest. There was even the Swisstopo map commemorating the anniversary of the first ascent. I feel honored to have this map at home too—a gift from Claudine, which I cherish at home.  

After visiting the KCC, we went straight to the teahouse, where we were able to move into our rooms straight away. I was lucky enough to get a double room, so the Theos also had plenty of space. Because the stove in the dining room was already lit, I went downstairs after getting settled in, wanting to read a bit. But since other members of the group were there, I preferred to chat with them by the stove. Anyone who has ever been to a teahouse in Nepal knows exactly what the scene looked like. About 10 people are sitting on plastic garden chairs around the stove, drinking either from their plastic bottles or hot tea from glasses. 

At 7 p.m. it was time for dinner, which for me was once again fries with fried eggs (empty plate number 5). Eloise had ordered potatoes with cheese and that's exactly what she got: 10 salt potatoes with two slices of yak cheese. The sight was a bit absurd, and I felt a little sorry for her because they looked very dry. She managed to eat at least 6 of them; I would have had enough after 2. After dinner, some of us played 2-3 rounds of UNO before everyone went to bed.  

I also had the opportunity to meet Gyalzen, my second Sherpa. Chirring, Phunuru, Gyalzen, and I sat together and discussed the next few days to ensure everyone was on the same page. I'm curious to see what it will be like on the mountain. Gyalzen seems a bit quiet, and Chirring is also more of a quiet type. But since people don't talk much on the mountain anyway, that shouldn't be a problem. And if there are any communication problems, Phnuru will be available to me. In any case, I'm not worried and was happy to meet the last member of the expedition. Gyalzen will return to the EBC tomorrow to help 14peaks set up camp. After the meeting, I also went to bed and fell asleep fairly quickly.  

This morning we woke up at 7 a.m. and had breakfast at 7:30 a.m. I had actually ordered cinnamon pancakes, but unfortunately I got chocolate pancakes, although chocolate is too much of an exaggeration. I didn't like them at all, and since we had a relatively short day of hiking ahead of us, I didn't rush into eating. So the plate went back to the kitchen almost full. The first highlight of the day was the visit to Phunuru's house. He and Minga used to live here in Phortse and now come back from time to time. Phunuru's mother and sister still live here and were already waiting for us in the house. He said that his house was small, but the dining room could easily compete with that of a few teahouses. We were given something hot to drink, were able to look at the private photos in peace and took the obligatory group photos. Phunuru's mother also provided us with kathas to ensure our hike was safe. I feel extremely honored that Phunuru and Mingma opened their doors to us, and that his sister and mother made the effort to meet us. They even postponed their visit to the monastery for a few hours.  

Now it was time to set off to tackle the second part of the panoramic trail. Here, too, we first walked to the upper end of the village and then continued up and down the mountain towards the east. Sometimes we found ourselves in front of more steep concrete steps, or the view changed around the next corner. The view of the Tengboche monastery was exceptionally beautiful, despite the clouds gathering again and the smog from the forest fires. We saw mountain goats and eagles along the way, watched people on their way to and from Tengboche, and passed a KCC practice wall. After just under 3 hours, we reached our destination, Pangboche, where I am still sitting. We checked into our rooms and ate a wonderful vegetarian dal bhat. Today, I once again have a room with a private toilet, which I naturally enjoy. To aid digestion, we walked a short distance back to the old part of the village, which, incidentally, is the highest continuously inhabited village in the entire Khumbu Valley. Also located here is the oldest monastery in Nepal, which we now visited. We first sat for half an hour in the prayer room and listened to the monks praying. Then we went up one floor, where various very old wooden masks and statues stood and hung.  

All decorated with hundreds of katthas and the walls covered in colorful paintings. The monastery was built from scratch by a lama who is known as the most powerful lama in the region. He had to assert himself against his two brothers to be considered the most powerful lama. At the end of our visit, we walked around the monastery to the left to the puja room, where the oldest lama was waiting for us and was performing a puja. He had just returned from two days in Kathmandu because he wasn't feeling well. First, the three of us climbers were blessed, and then all the trekkers. I now have a pendant around my neck with an important Buddhist figure holding a black rat in its hands. I couldn't have imagined anything more fitting. At base camp, I will be able to experience another puja, where my equipment will also be blessed. For many of us, it was the first experience in a monastery, and even though I've experienced it once or twice before, it was still special. I still don't understand the religion and culture, but I greatly appreciate that Phunuru and Mingma gave us insight into this world. Of course, we also brought offerings and money to ensure the blessing was legitimate.  

Now we're back at the teahouse, where we ordered our dinner and can rest. The food will arrive in an hour, and until then, I'll play a bit of UNO, because the others are already busy playing while I'm writing these lines.

Tomorrow there will be another short day of hiking. We'll head to Dingboche, which is around 4,410 meters high. That means about 600 meters of elevation gain and hopefully more great views of Ama, Everest, Lhotse, and all the other high mountains around us. Right now, Ama Dablam is fully visible again, shining down on us 😊 

Wednesday, 9th of April - Dingboche

 

Yesterday we woke up late because, as already mentioned, we didn't have much of a walk ahead of us. First, we walked uphill to the end of the village, where we unfortunately had to say goodbye to John and Mitch. They will spend the next three weeks on Ama Dablam and hopefully climb it. They will walk with Dawa to base camp in about three hours, and then they will set up camp and rest there for the next few days.
Of course, we celebrated this moment with a final group photo.
The view of Ama, Everest, and Co up the valley was once again wonderful, especially because, as is often the case, the sky was still cloudless in the morning. A dog followed us along the trail and even took photos for me.

The path now led us eastward, more or less level, along the river. It was relatively windless, so the walk was a pleasure for everyone. We took a short drink break every 40 minutes; after all, it's important to drink enough even on short, flatter sections.
At the only bridge on our route, we took a longer break, and some of us took the opportunity to wash our hands in the cold river and/or cool our heads.
After that, we climbed another 45 minutes to a ridge, from where we could already see Dingboche. Dingboche is at 4,410 meters and I remember it fondly from my previous treks. We checked into the Tashi Delek teahouse and had lunch. Luckily, I had the special order of fries, as the noodle soup looked anything but good. I had to concentrate not to look at the others' plates, because then I would instantly feel sick, which I absolutely wanted to avoid. Even now, as I write, I have to concentrate on taking deep breaths.



After dinner and the obligatory black tea, I settled into my room, changed my clothes, and took the opportunity to have a quick wash. Having new clothes after a week felt really good! This time, too, I was lucky enough to have a private toilet, which I appreciate even more. After all, sitting in the bathroom is way more fun than the other way of peeing ;)
After settling in, I went to the cafe next to our teahouse, where I stayed for the next four hours. There was masala tea, really good hot chocolate, popcorn, great conversations, and many laughs as Eloise experimented a bit with Photoshop. She started this trip with her father, Michael. Unfortunately, he was already struggling with the altitude before Namche, and it didn't improve even after two days. Therefore, he was flown from Namche to Kathmandu on Monday, where he spent a night in the hospital. So, Eloise Photoshopped Michael into various pictures from the past few days so that he was also included. Of course, there were some funny results :)

Dinner was scheduled for 7 p.m., so we moved to our dining room. I had cold fries with cold fried eggs, but I still managed to eat quite a bit. Afterward, I read a bit, and the others played another round of Uno.
At 8:30 p.m., it got a little chilly, so I decided to go to bed.
This morning, I woke up late again, as the plan was "only" an acclimatization tour. Unfortunately, breakfast wasn't quite to my liking either, so I set off with an almost empty stomach. The goal was the summit of Nangkhartshang at 5,083 m. Of course, no one had to go all the way to the top, but it was somewhat expected of me, since I had a bit more to do than the others. We hiked very leisurely up the ridge and then continued along it upwards. There were frequent breaks, and the view was mostly good. At times, it looked as if the clouds would swallow us up, otherwise we wouldn't have climbed to 5,000 meters. But it cleared up again, so some of us made the climb all the way up. Today, everyone had to listen to their bodies, because tomorrow is a long day, and it would be foolish to leave too much energy on the ridge today. I felt very good the whole way and was able to gain altitude slowly and steadily.

Once at the top, there was enough time to wait for clear skies, take photos, and welcome the others who were taking a little longer.
I was allowed to descend at my own pace, so I was back at the teahouse 45 minutes later. Unfortunately, I got a headache on the way, which gradually got worse. When everyone was back, we shared our impressions and ate lunch. I had fries again, but the headache and thoughts of yesterday's lunch kept me from actually eating anything. I struggled through a third of the plate, but the longer I sat, the more difficult it became to even look at food. So I soon disappeared into my sleeping bag to doze a little and get rid of the nausea. These are the kinds of moments I hate, because under normal circumstances, with normal food, I wouldn't have such a big problem eating. I was hungry, of course, but once I have bad thoughts about strange food, they almost don't go away. Luckily, I know that deep breathing can sometimes help, and today it actually did. About an hour ago, my head still pounding, I headed to the cafe for another delicious hot chocolate. The headache is still there, but thankfully less severe. If it doesn't get better, I'll take a pill before dinner for the sake of a good night's sleep.
My legs are still fit, and if this minor headache is enough, I'll be able to enjoy the next two days until the EBC. The weather should stay similar to what it has been so far: clear in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon. I'm slowly looking forward to the shower at the EBC and to settling into my tent instead of having to pack everything up every day or every other day. I'm also hoping for much better food at the EBC, at least after my experience on Manaslu ;)

Saturday, 12th of April - Everest Base Camp

The second night in Dingboche was just as quiet as the first. Contrary to expectations, I was able to keep my room to myself and didn't have to share it. If too many other trekkers had arrived, I would have shared it with Xoe, as she is the only other female trekker who wasn't coughing or feeling the least bit ill. But hey, once again I was able to enjoy my single room. Reveille on Thursday wasn't too early – at 7:30 a.m. – as we didn't want to arrive in Lobuche too early. There's nothing there except a huge dining room and rather cold rooms. Moreover, the teahouses there are usually very full, as almost everyone stays there overnight. The risk of coming out sick is correspondingly high. So we started our day's hiking at around 8:15 a.m. First, we went back up the same ridge we had climbed yesterday. Then we followed the plateau above Periche further up the valley. The climb was almost imperceptible, as we only had to overcome 250 meters of elevation in just a few kilometers. After an hour, we passed yak enclosures, clearly recognizable by their hand-built stone walls. There were also two very old stone houses on the plateau that provided the yak drivers with a sheltered overnight spot. Naturally, we took advantage of this old spot to take another group photo. We were now just under an hour away from our lunch stop, Thukla. To get there, we had to cross a small river and climb a small hill. It seemed as if there would be a new bridge soon, so we wouldn't have to climb the small hill in the future. The concrete supports at each end of the bridge are already in place, and the materials for the suspension bridge are lying around everywhere: chain-link fencing, sheet metal decking, and steel cables. I'm curious to see how long it will take until the bridge is built and ready for use. Above all, I wonder how they'll manage to tension the steel cables, etc.
Thukla was quite busy, again because most trekking groups stop here for lunch on the way to the EBC, but also on the way back. A place with poor hygiene and not the best food. We were lucky; our chips were very good and hot. This was probably because a lot of groups were leaving when we came in, so the kitchen wasn't too busy. So we fortified ourselves with noodle soup and chips for the next big, steep climb to Thukla Pass, known to most as Memorial Hill. Because I knew it's easier to follow someone's footsteps on steep climbs, I slowed down a bit more than normal and walked slowly up the hill with three of the Aussies behind me. This is always a good thing for me, because it forces me not to go too fast. A win-win situation for everyone. This made the climb much less strenuous, and when I reached the top, I saw on my watch that, despite the altitude of almost 4,900 m, I still had an average heart rate of 80. Once at the top, we were given some time to explore the many memorials erected in honor of numerous mountaineers who unfortunately were unable to make their way home. For me, this high plateau is always an emotional visit. The atmosphere is different from the rest of the trek. I sense so many dreams that remained unfulfilled on the mountains, and a lot of sadness. I also always feel selfish for continuing to pursue my dream, despite seeing it with my own eyes and feeling it with my own eyes. My third visit was not without tears, and it was nice to have someone hug me again this time. Allan only had to look at me and he knew what to do. I also showed him where a small memorial should be placed, in case my dream also ended on the mountain. Even though I'm sure that won't happen, it's comforting to know that someone knows where my dream spot would be. Better safe than sorry 😉
This time, too, I found it difficult to leave this spot after half an hour, so I trudged silently behind our group. Nowhere, in my opinion, are you more exposed to the consequences of mountaineering than here. The path to Lobuche led us further along the valley between the slope and scree of the Khumbu Glacier, and just an hour later, we spotted the few houses. Our teahouse was called Altitude Oxygen, or something similar, and Phnuru had already reserved an entire wing for us. He had left Dingboche the day before to lead another group up Lobuche East and left the group in Lobuche to wait for us. This time, I had no luck with the single room, but since Xoe is just as easygoing and flexible, it didn't really bother me. She was also healthy, which is a priority for me here. We settled into the room so that it would be ready whenever we went to bed....
Setting up means taking the sleeping bag out of the compression sack and laying out the thermals inside so they won't be too cold when you put them on. Since I knew from previous visits that Lobuche is always quite cold, I decided to put on the thermals so I could get into the sleeping bag faster. I also laid out my toothbrush and tomorrow's clothes in the sleeping bag. After that, I refilled the snack bag and got the bottles ready to fill with hot water. There's not much else to do. Downstairs in the dining room, I ordered a small pot of lemon-ginger tea because I needed a break from the black tea. We also ordered dinner, and then I read a bit. A documentary was playing on the TV about a French influencer who had climbed Everest last year. I had read about it in a newspaper article, and it was exciting to watch. The guy's name was Inox or something and he prepared for a year. I think the documentary is on YouTube if anyone's interested. I hope the change he kept talking about was lasting, because at the beginning it didn't seem like he appreciated the Nepalese mountains. Another experience that shocked me a little was when some idiot deliberately stood in front of the TV to block our view. He saw all of us women looking at the TV, stood up and told his friends that he was going to block the TV. My first priority was to tell him that I had already climbed the mountain that was on TV (Ama Dablam), and that I therefore had my own pictures. But I let it go, assholes like that don't change when you say something. Man, I'm glad I'm pretty sure I won't have to deal with anything like that on the mountain. Unfortunately, there are idiots like that on every mountain, and I hope no woman has to deal with one. Luckily, he soon sat down again, so we could continue watching the documentary in peace. Dinner soon arrived – I had spaghetti Napoli – and we all filled our stomachs in gratifying silence. Afterward, we had to stay put for a while, as Allan doesn't want anyone in bed before 8 p.m. Acclimatization is much slower if you sleep in the afternoon, as your breathing rate is different and you don't drink anything when you're asleep. Shortly after 8 p.m., everyone had brushed their teeth and gone to bed. In the meantime, their sleeping bags had been filled with hot water bottles, so hopefully no one was cold.
The next morning we had breakfast again at 8am before setting off on the final leg of the trek to EBC. It had snowed about 5cm during the night, so the first part of the trail was very quiet. Some of the Aussies had never walked in snow before, so everyone had a smile on their faces despite the cold. The first part of the trail is fairly flat, before a small steep slope then leads onto the scree slope of the glacier. We followed the slope in many hairpin bends, constantly going up and down, and had to stop every now and then because yaks or porters wanted to overtake us or were coming towards us. Around 2.5 hours after setting off, we were already in Gorakshep. We gave the teahouses a wide berth, however, because the hygiene here is even worse than in Lobuche. We now headed directly to base camp. Or rather, indirectly, because even on this part, it was a constant up and down until we finally reached the ridge, from where we could see the EBC tents getting closer and closer. By now, the wind had started to bite and blow again, so none of us really felt like taking a break. Luckily, we had a tailwind, because the trekkers we passed had snow in their faces and some of them looked quite exhausted. Shortly before the EBC, Gjalzen and another EBC Sherpa served us hot tea and biscuits, which they had picked up from camp. This gave everyone a chance to warm up a bit before we set off down onto the glacier. Until now, I've always had to turn around at the ominous base camp rock, as this is the end of the line for trekkers. But since Allan has a special two-night permit for his group, and I'm a climber, not a trekker, we were able to bypass the crowded rock and walk into base camp. The Aussies have a tent group near the bottom of base camp, which is where Gjalzen and Phnuru led us. My camp would be 30 minutes further up, but I was able to enjoy popcorn and lunch with the group. The camp is right next to the glacier, and I couldn't help myself; I just had to absorb the view. I've never been this close to the glacier before, and yet my fear of going through it has never been so small. Allan said the first time is magical, and I hope he's right. I'm so excited to see how I'll do on the Khumbu Icefall and whether I can enjoy it as much as I did the glacier crossing between Camps 1 and 2 on Manaslu. But first, we had lunch together one last time. I'll be back down to their camp tomorrow for dinner, as they're not really welcome at my camp.
When it was time, I shouldered my backpack and followed Chirring and Gjalzen along the glacier another 80 meters to my camp. Everyone there seemed a little surprised by my appearance, because nothing was really ready. My tent, too, nor the toilets or the paths leading there. My tent was up, but it didn't have any bedding or mattress in it yet. In the dining tent, the alternator and cups were already on the table, but the heaters and sugar weren't there. I think they weren't expecting me until tomorrow. I was the first to move into the camp and briefly felt a little lonely after spending 10 days with such a great group. Luckily, I already had Wi-Fi, so I could at least let people know I'd arrived. Unfortunately, my other duffle bag, the one with the down pants and warm thermals, hadn't arrived yet either. So I had to somehow endure the cold with what I had and filled all the bottles with hot water so my hands would at least be warm. For dinner, there was a delicious dal bhat, even a small portion just for me. I finished it under the watchful eye of the cook (empty plate number 6?). They also managed to get the radiator running just before dinner, so it was a little less cold. Nevertheless, I went to bed after dinner; it was still too cold for me.
It was cozy and warm in my sleeping bag, so I was able to read a little more and then soon fell asleep.
This morning, I woke up at 4:00 a.m. because of the cold, but then I was able to snuggle up a bit and doze until 6:00 a.m. The tent was so bright that I hoped the sun would shine outside, and I was in luck. When I stepped out of the tent shortly after 8:00 a.m., I saw nothing but blue sky and the icefall directly in front of me. This view is priceless, and I almost couldn't tear my eyes away. I was truly and truly at EBC and was able to spend another 5-7 weeks here. Me at Everest Base Camp, to climb Everest and Lhotse... The fact that yesterday's arrival wasn't as planned is now forgotten, and I'm enjoying it very much. I got my breakfast at 8:30 a.m. I had ordered a piece of toast with gonfi. I received an omelet, two slices of toast, sausages, and a sliced ​​apple. Since I didn't want to upset anyone, I ate everything except the sausages, wondering how I would eat lunch again in a few hours. But I didn't want to make the chef feel guilty, because the food was very good. Afterward, he asked me if I wanted to see the kitchen, etc. I didn't need to be told twice, and so I was given a unique tour of all the tents, which are normally off-limits to us Westerners. The kitchen tent has four gas stoves, an entire shelf full of pans, bowls, etc. Another shelf full of plates and cutlery. Outside they had a small washing area for washing clothes and dishes. 10m next to it was the storage tent, where they stored everything edible. In one corner the stones had been removed from the ice, so that bare ice was visible. There couldn't be a more natural refrigerator. On one side they stored all the vegetables they used for cooking. He said that he had enough food for 25 people for about 30 days, and that more vegetables would always be arriving. He had bought the food about three months ago in Kathmandu, from where it was transported by truck to the end of the road below Lukla. From there, it was transported to Namche by donkey, reloaded, and carried to base camp by yaks and dzos. So his job began long before he moved into the EBC. His crew consists of seven people, who are responsible for 25 climbers. There are two dining tents: a private one for a group of seven, and mine for 16 people, which includes 15 others besides me who will arrive sometime in the next two weeks. I tried to remember the names and hope to be able to do them in a few days, because they are just as important as Chirring and Gjalzen for success in the next two months and a safe return. The names I can remember so far are Nati, Pasang (twice), Prem, and Brim. But now that I'm writing them down, I'm not entirely sure. I'll probably have to ask a few more times. But they definitely know now that I don't eat much, that I'm a vegetarian, and that I tell them if I don't like something. Yesterday, for example, I was given soup before the dal bhat. I'll have to stop that soon, because last time on Manaslu, the soup was the most difficult part for me.
After the tour, it was Chirring and Gjalzen's turn to set up my tent; I'm getting a bed frame. Although I never expected it when I was planning the expedition, I couldn't convince them that I didn't need a bed. So now there's a bed in my tent, and I'm excited to see how I'll sleep in it. It wasn't easy to straighten the frame so it was level. They had to remove the top tent canvas and adjust the floor with stones to make the frame stand straight. Then they covered the floor with a mat, and the entrance area with artificial turf. They also had to stretch one side wall because it had dripped into the tent during breakfast. If the roof freezes and the sun melts the ice, it shouldn't push through the inner tent. I'm curious to see if it's dry now. Meanwhile, about 10 Sherpas were busy outfitting the other box tents with frames, mats, and artificial turf. Unfortunately, no one spoke English, so I don't know when the next ones will move in. In any case, I settled into the tent somewhat afterward, stretched ropes, filled the small compartments, and hung up the khatas I'd received on the trek. Chirring also got me a few flat stones so I could make my stone pictures in front of the tent again. Now there's a smiley face and a heart in front of the tent again, and three stones next to it, symbolizing Chirring, Gjalzen, and me. I actually only wanted two, but Chirring said we'd be a team of three. I also took advantage of the sun to wash and hang up the small amount of dirty laundry. Unfortunately, I can't shower yet, as all my clean clothes are in the missing duffel bag. I really hope it turns up soon, because it contains all my climbing gear, including my boots and down suit, which are irreplaceable. I'm not completely worried yet, but I'm a little worried because apparently no one really knows where the bag is. It's somewhere between Kathmandu and the EBC, which includes quite a few possible locations.
Now I'm sitting in the dining tent and will be served lunch in half an hour. I asked for something light and am curious to see if my idea of ​​what to expect is the same as the kitchen team's :D