Sunday, 1.September - Hotel Manaslu in Kathmandu
"Life as a mountaineer can sometimes be very easy: you see a mountain that interests you, you find out about it and, in the best case scenario, you climb it.
I don't call myself a mountaineer, that's someone else's idea. I describe myself as the pursuer of my life's dream. The fact that I climb mountains every now and then doesn't qualify me to call myself a mountaineer. To be honest, I don't think that will change after the next expedition.
There are still 10 days between me and my departure to Nepal, so the countdown will reach single digits in 24 hours. I'm still in the middle of starting school stress, which is good on the one hand because it means I don't have time to think. On the other hand, I don't really have time to train intensively, which is counterproductive."
I wrote these lines in the notes on my cell phone on the train, 10 days before my departure.
The 10 days in question are now over and I'm sitting in the room of my hotel in Kathmandu. The time at home flew by, so many things still had to be done, so many friends and family said goodbye and “on the side” good quality lessons had to be prepared. Looking back, I think I did pretty well. Nevertheless, I was once again amazed at how long my to-do list was at the end and how much time it took to complete it. Whenever someone asked me if I was ready, I responded with the same phrase: "Yes, I just have to pack." But I never explained what the word “packing” means. I could also have said the following: I just have to test whether the heated socks in the mountain boots still fit after 2 hours. Of course tested at 35 degrees in the shade. Or: I just have to try out whether I'm actually able to walk on an aluminum ladder with the mountain boots on and the crampons installed. Or: I just have to think about how many of which snacks I want to take with me, buy them, repack them and pack them logically. Or: I have to collect all the medications, write down for each of the mandatory prescription pills what they are for and what the identical medication is called in America, so that the guides - and I - know which medication is for which emergency. Or my favorite: I just have to fold the laundry, buy a birthday present, wrap other presents, mail a package, get some dollars, and figure out which and how many puzzles to wrap.
You see, an expedition like this involves preparation that you cannot estimate until you are only 10 days away from departure and realize that in these days you will also have to attend 2 meetings, as many coaching sessions and a business meeting in addition to your normal working hours should.
The day of departure was not only the start of the expedition, but also the end of long and intensive preparation and the time on the plane was the connection between them.
I don't have to explain that saying goodbye on Saturday morning was, and probably will be in retrospect, the worst part of this trip. You think you're prepared for it in some way, but actually saying goodbye was almost impossible. In every newsletter I received during the expedition there was the sentence somewhere: And remember, on such a big expedition the most difficult step is often leaving home. I couldn't put it better, because I've never sat so sadly at an airport gate and waited for things to come.
The two flights were quiet and unspectacular, the short transfer window in Doha was long enough to avoid having to run from the first to the second plane. On the second flight I was able to enjoy the business class again with the spacious seats and the fine food. I was actually the first to get off the plane and therefore the first at the visa counter. Luckily, my luggage didn't take long to arrive and I was on my way out of the airport building within 20 minutes of landing, where Mohan was already waiting for me. Mohan was already the welcoming and farewell delegation on the Ama trip and it was nice to see him again. He even came up with a surprise: an electric car took me to the hotel on the empty streets of Kathmandu at 1 hour.
In the room I had to empty almost 3/4 of my duffel bags because I couldn't remember where I had put my pajamas. After all, almost everything was ready for the material check, which was to follow in the next few days.
It wasn't so easy to fall asleep anymore, but the rain outside definitely helped me get a few hours of sleep.
Tuesday, 3.September - Hotel Manaslu Kathmandu
Another day started today with sunshine. I heard thunder once during the night, but otherwise I slept pretty well. Now I'm sitting in the garden of our hotel and enjoying the peace and quiet before the flight to Samagaon.
Yesterday was my first full day here in Kathmandu. I slept until 8:30 a.m. and then explored the breakfast buffet. As always on trips like this, I first have to get used to eating regularly again. The buffet here is varied and lavish, but I don't eat sausages, beans or papaya for breakfast. So yoghurt with a bit of muesli and toast with salty butter and jam that was way too sweet was enough for me. The main thing is something in your stomach. Afterwards I planned to have a quiet ball, pack my gear into the duffle bags, then have lunch somewhere with the others and then enjoy a massage. As always, you shouldn't make too big plans in Nepal ;)
I saw that my older duffle bag had various holes in it and asked Dean and JC if they could recommend the Everest Outfit duffles and if so, what size. They said that the 150l bag would be perfect so that you don't have to think too much about packing, you can just throw everything in. However, it is too large for the weight of luggage on the plane.
Shortly after the conversation, Phunuru wrote to us that we should have the duffles ready in the lobby at 4:30 p.m. as they might be brought to Samagaon before us. So my plan for a quiet ball was over and I had to go straight into town to buy the duffle, because it was already half past 11 a.m. and at 12 p.m. we wanted to have lunch in the hotel next door. So I went straight to Seeing Hands to enjoy my long-awaited massage despite a little time stress. Luckily they had time for me right away and so I came out of the building an hour later happy and satisfied. Afterwards I went straight to the Everst Outfit Store, where I bought the 150l duffle bag. Almost on time at 12:15 p.m. I was with the others at the lunch buffet and was able to eat in peace. Then it was the turn of the big duffle shuffle, which worked unexpectedly quickly. There is another base camp duffle that comes with us, but is usually stored in some equipment room and is only really accessible at the base camp. The other is the trekking duffle which I will have in the room in Samagaon. I used the time after packing to rest a bit in the hotel garden until we went to the Yeti Hotel at 6 p.m., where we enjoyed our official team dinner in the Resti on the roof terrace. We were there on the last evening of the Ama expedition and the food was once again very tasty and the view was great anyway!
We used the evening afterwards to have a drink together in our hotel before going to bed. I also had the opportunity to talk to Raphael on the phone in peace and now I'm ready to go to the mountains.
We just received a message from Phunuru telling us to be ready in the lobby in 20 minutes. It looks as if we have received permission for the helicopter flight. We didn't have them yesterday because they couldn't fly for two weeks because of the weather. So it looks like we're actually going to Samagaon today. We're all excited to get out of the city because the air here isn't the best; Dean especially, he doesn't really like big cities.
Hopefully I will have a little more time over the next week to introduce my teammates better. I'm definitely so happy with the team, it couldn't have been better, except maybe if Stu from the Ama expedition was still there. But maybe it will work with him as a western guide for Everest :)
Wednesday, 4.September - Hotel Norling Samagaon
After it was suddenly said yesterday morning that we had to be in the lobby at 10:30 a.m., we were all excited. It looked good with the approval for the helicopter flight and the weather also showed its more beautiful side. We drove the car first over side streets towards the airport. The main roads are always quite congested at this time. So we also saw another part of Kathmandu and roads that are less well maintained than the busy ones. It took us just under half an hour to get to the goal. A Nepali was already waiting there, who pushed our boarding passes into our hand while getting out of the car. With this we reached the security area of the airport within 5 minutes, where we had to wait in front of the Heli Everest office until the paperwork was done. While waiting, another Manaslu team joined us, funnyly from the Swiss-Nepalese company Wild Yak Team. They also intended to fly to Samagaon with Heli Everest. After about a quarter of an hour it went through another security check into the waiting room, where I already spent 1.5 days waiting 7 years ago. This time, enough time was to buy water and eat some cookies. We were already accompanied one step further to the airfield, where a bus appeared as if out of nowhere, which chauffeured us through detours, under taking off planes and rumbling posts to the helipad. The two pilots were already waiting for us there and we were allowed to get in. I was allowed to inherit the window seat from JC, because he didn't care if he was sitting in the middle. While waiting at the office, Phunuru had told us that we had to make a short stop on the way, as there are no permits for the flight for helicopters at the moment. We couldn't quite explain it to ourselves, but in Nepal things just go a little differently than we are used to. The first half of the quiet flight led us to a collection of 5 houses next to a bridge and a river. We had to get out and only then did we understand the whole Zwischenlande story. Our duffle bags, which were already picked up yesterday at the hotel, were already ready, surrounded by various other duffles, boxes, etc. The pilots and locals emptied the helicopters, tore out seat cushions and headphones and filled the 2 helicopters to the top with the luggage. We first stood in the railing midday sun until it became clear that the short stopover would probably take a little longer, since both helicopters had to transport 2x luggage. So we looked for a cooler place under the bridge and waited for the things that came there, while we watched the clouds that multiplied in time. When we finally sat back in the helicopter, it went through rain and just below the cloud line to Samagaon. We were the only helicopters that were on the road, apparently some groups are still waiting for their approval. However, we walked happily to our home for the next few days, where we first ordered food and enjoyed it after a long wait.
After that, the furnishing in the room was announced and a little rest time. For the night there was only a soup for me and shortly afterwards night's rest. Unfortunately, I couldn't really sleep because I brought a bad cold from Kathmandu.
This morning I definitely got up like a wheel and enjoyed a Neocitran for breakfast. I hope it doesn't get worse, since I can actually use it the least in the next 4 weeks.
After today's breakfast we went on a short hike to the nearby Brendrasee, which is sacred. You are not allowed to swim in it, or similar, which we found very unfortunate, because the sun was really strong this morning. We built a few stone men next to the many already existing ones and discussed the route to the base camp, which you could see from here.
After about an hour they went back, with a detour to the new monastery building, which they had finished in the spring. The afternoon program was then rather unspectacular: lunch, a short tour through the village with a village-owned animal prison. Animals are brought there, which are too close to the village and then the owner has to trigger his animal again by paying a bus. There is no food in the prison so that the owners really come. Other countries, other customs 😂
I'm sitting in my room now, just finished reading the first book and waiting for dinner. Tomorrow we go on a longer acclimatization and the trip to the base camp is planned for Saturday, 7. September. By then, more Westerners should have arrived in Sama, at the moment there are still very few because of the missing helicopter flight permits. By the way, we had also received ours in a rather unconventional way, as Phunuru admitted to us in retrospect. We had only received the permit for the flight to Samagaon after we had made a stopover. After all, you don't want to leave tourists somewhere in the middle of nowhere without luggage and nothing 🤷🏽♀️ you learn a lot here when it comes to getting what you want...
Friday, 6.September - Samdo - Samagaon
Once again, one afternoon I sit in a sleeping bag in my room and listen to the light rain. It's not as cold as I expected, but it's more comfortable in the sleeping bag than on the sleeping bag. Yesterday morning we went to the old monastery after breakfast to get a private Puja. This was carried out by the local llama, who is already 84 years old. The Puja is there to get protection for our ascent. It lasted about 40 minutes and took place in a beautifully colorful room. In between we received rice, because we threw it into the lift from time to time and the blessing with a local kata was of course not missing either. In the base camp we will have another Puja next week, which will then last a little longer. After the blessing we went back to the early lunch, so we had enough time to hike to Samdo in the afternoon. Samdo is located out of the valley and is the last village before the Tibetan border. It is 350m higher than Samagaon and a night there should prepare us further for the height in the base camp. The path winds next to the river the pastures and the two sides of the valley, with steady slope you are there in just under 2.5 hours. Unfortunately, lunch plagues me a little, it seems as if I caught a beetle. Stomach cramps and countless trips to the toilet were unfortunately the result. Of course, I didn't really feel like eating something in Samdo. I tried popcorn and a little tomato soup. Unfortunately, the soup didn't taste like tomatoes, which made it even harder for me to eat. At least I managed a third and a half plates of popcorn. At 8 p.m. I went to bed because I felt really uncomfortable. Unfortunately, the night was plagued by cramps and other toilet trips. I didn't really find sleep and time seemed to stand still between my toilet corridors. After all, I managed to drink regularly, so that the risk of dehydration was not so great. When the alarm clock rang, I was definitely happy that the night was over. After the bad cold and the still runny nose, I could have done without this stomach upset. Especially since today it was planned that in the morning we would continue to climb over 4000m high for a good acclimatization. But for breakfast there was first a few corn flakes and tea. Since Dean had a similar night to me and had also caught a cold, we probably looked quite pitiful at the breakfast table. Nevertheless, we wanted to try to hike a little higher, which we all managed. Me with stomach cramps and 2 toilet stops in the bushes, but still at a reasonably good pace. I stopped at 4000m, the others went about 60m further. After a 30' break it went back down to the teahouse, just in time for my next toilet trip. I didn't like the prospect of another 2 hours of hiking, but it didn't help, the plan was to hike back to Samagaon after another cup of tea. I couldn't really enjoy the way back. Every time I drank something, the cramps came back, and my toilet paper supply was slowly coming to an end. Not to mention that the energy level was not that insanely high. But I couldn't force myself to eat a snack, the fear of further cramps was too great. At 11h we were back in Samagaon, where we first ordered our lunch. I tried it with fries, as it seems that the fried food is safer. I even managed to eat half the plate, and since then the fries have stayed nice and good in the body. Before that I could even eat a piece of chocolate. So it goes up in small steps. I'm happy for the free afternoon after lunch, which I used to read and blog. I was even able to sleep for half an hour and now hope for a quieter night with good sleep. At dinner we will discuss when to go to Baislager. I'm not quite confident yet that I'll make the 1100hm tomorrow, but I have the whole day, so it should work somehow. And finally, the sick days should be over now, so that I can start enjoying nature.
Before dinner, Dawa, another of our guides arrived. He was previously busy with the construction in the Basecamp and is also waiting for a private customer who should arrive tomorrow with the helicopter, if the weather cooperates. Today, at least 3 helicopters made it to Sama, so the teahouse is fuller than before our Samdo trip.
Monday, 9.September - Manaslu Basecamp 🤩
The decision for a day of rest was made quickly and I was honestly happy that I was given another day more time to get my stomach problems under control and maybe find a good round of sleep.
The next day I felt around a lot better. I was able to take something for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Even if it was just a little pancake and fries.. Drinking was still very good. I treated myself to another sprite for Znacht to get the food down even better. In addition to the food, I read a lot and packed a little for tomorrow. Because Sunday was finally our big moving day, we finally wanted to go to the base camp. In numbers, that's 7km with 1300hm, which we wanted to get behind us in about 4 hours. We planned breakfast rather early so that we could have lunch in the BC. Unfortunately, all groups were on the road with the same plan, so that we only got our breakfast an hour later than planned and could therefore start running much later. With me, my stomach had thought overnight that it was time for the party again, so that I once again sat in front of my plate with stomach cramps and thought about how I should eat that. I never thought food would be such a problem. I got so frustrated that I even started crying because of the food. I just can't force myself, even though I know I have to eat. But the nausea is always stronger and then I torture myself to get at least 2-3 half forks down. All the effort was on the drm day anyway for the cat, since I got rid of almost everything on the toilet before leaving. So I was ready to march in the yard, with stomach cramps and the knowledge that I now have to walk extremely steeply up to the BC for 4 hours. As if that wasn't "nice" enough, I also had to fight against nausea after the first break. For a long time I didn't know if the food now wanted to come out at the top or bottom. This inner fight against vomiting accompanied me almost to the top, I use every break to go to the toilet, in the hope that I would be better off with an empty stomach. Also, the desire to drink was not very great, the backpack strap pressed on my stomach and many Westerners blocked my way by stopping every 5' to get to my breath. However, I just wanted to go up very slowly, but at least steadily to the BC, so that I could be close to a toilet again and rest my body. I went at my own pace, Phunuru always nicely behind me, while the other three were a little faster. They always waited every 30-45' for me, but 2' after I arrived, it went on. So breaks were rare and short and I tried to "just keep walking". Soe as Dory sings in the film: Keep on swimming, swimming, swimming... After almost 4h walking time, the last steep slope was finally climbed and the tents were in sight. I got a cup of hot water pressed into my hands and 10' later there were full plates in front of us. Clearly too early for me, although my stomach signaled me hunger - my brain said something else. I was content with nibbling on a butter cookie, even managed to flush down a second one with a lot of tea. Fortunately, one of the cooks is already used to my eating behavior from the Ama 🤦🏽♀️ after the meal there was dessert, after that we waited for our duffle bags so that we could set up our tents. And that actually takes time, because this time we have boxing tents in which you can stand, including anteroom, light, sockets, insulation, mattress and windows. All in all about 6m2 in size and laid out with artificial turf. What the hell were they thinking? For me it was too much of a good thing, I was overwhelmed and just had to cry with happiness. The agony of the morning and then this 5-star paradise, then the sight of the Manaslu, who slipped out of the clouds for the first time... too much for me and my emotions. It took hours to understand the whole thing and even now while I'm writing this blog and already 24 hours have passed, I'm almost crying again because of these little things that are so much bigger here. Of course you don't need a lot of it, I mean common, an artificial turf carpet... But it's so much easier to get through this expedition if you feel comfortable and like to be there.
At 18.30h it was time for the next meal and this was opened with a hot cloth to clean the face. What a surprising treat after this physically and emotionally exhausting day. There is usually also an appetizer, today a mushroom cream soup and then pasta with vegetables. I got a small portion and even managed to eat the plate empty. That made me a little proud again. Another surprise was the cake that the cooks served us. I don't know how they can do it without an oven. I enjoyed a mini piece and found it very nice. After that it was the end of the terrain for me, I was really very tired. That's why I wanted to go to bed right after the cake. Unfortunately, it rained so hard that I drank another cup of tea before I could return to my paradise, which I had furnished at home in the afternoon.
Hardly snuggled in the sleeping bag, I couldn't sleep again. It was not the raindrops on the tent, or the stone chips that you constantly hear, but again the stomach that reported. The toilet going to the toilet didn't help any more than the warm bed bottle, or the side shift change. So I also tormented myself through the night with short sleep phases until the sun woke me up at 7am. A little wheeled I sat up and was pretty hot. The dressing was then a little slower, but the sight that appeared to me when I slipped out of the Zrlt was breathtaking. You could see the huge glacier with the entire route cloudless in front of you. Simply brilliant to see something like this after another arduous night.
Breakfast was scheduled at 8h, I ate only 2/3 pieces of fruit and 2 spoons of yogurt, but drank a few teas while Phunuru explained the route to us. After that, we did a round trip together in our camp so that everyone knew what was where and who was responsible for what. Of course, the first thing after this visit was the shower test. Finally I was able to wash my hair again, a little time has passed since Kathmandu 🤭 it was wonderful to take a warm shower and then put on fresh clothes. After that I read a little more and managed to eat almost my entire baby portion at lunch. For digestion, Dean and I tried to explore the nearby glacier, but we couldn't find a viable way. Nevertheless, it was good to stretch your legs a little. Now I'm back in the tent and finishing the entry, because I have to go to the bathroom again. This is unfortunately very simple: a blue barrel with a sack in it and the vain hope that everyone will hit the barrel while squatting. As at the Ama, the motto applies here again: urinate somewhere outside the toilet tent, the larger business, no matter how liquid, into the barrel. Doing both at the same time in the same place is not possible 🤭 despite this little negative point I feel like I'm in paradise.
Tuesday, 10.September - Manaslu Base Camp
We are facing another day of rest today. Yesterday once again came to an end with rain. In the afternoon I got the advice from Claudine that I should just try to eat a portion of white rice to calm my stomach. The obvious solution sometimes seems quite far away in height. I would not have come up with the idea of asking for rice, or specifically for something to eat in general. Until now, I was just waiting for the menus that came 🤷🏽♀️
So yesterday I asked for a small portion of rice, which I actually got and could also eat with the help of Aromat. Meanwhile, the others were surprised with yak steak on the hot stone. What they conjure up from the kitchen every day is beyond good and evil. For dessert there was a fruit cocktail yesterday, which I gratefully refused. For this I was able to talk to Raphael on the phone for a couple of minutes, since the wifi was working again in the meantime. At 8 p.m. we went back to the toilet and off to the warm sleeping bag. After a long back and forth, I finally found a comfortable position to fall asleep. The stomach didn't keep me awake all the time and only woke me up 2-3 times. When I once peeled myself out of the tent at night, I saw a breath of light from a distance, which conjured up a beautiful atmosphere and showed me that I once again slept more than I had been lying awake in my sleeping bag.
In the morning the sun was shining again and I tried to get normal cell phone reception on the helipad again unsuccessfully. This seems to work for the locals, but unfortunately not for me. So I also made myself for breakfast, to fill my once again empty stomach with money, that finally another day would pass on which I would not have to disappear several times in the toilet tent. I asked for toast and fruit for breakfast. It took me more than an hour, but I was able to squeeze down three portions of fruit as well as a Nutella toast. It took time and was no fun, but it felt far less like a fight, like nocv 12h before dinner. After breakfast I actually wanted to wash a few clothes, but unfortunately the rain came soon, so I mostly tried to use the wifi when it was running, enjoying the few minutes of sun or reading and playing on the phone. So the time passes somehow and in haob 12 I sat again at the lunch table for the next portion of rice. The Internet has made me smart about what would be good for the stomach besides rice: black chocolate, long black tea and white bread. As a dessert, after the rice with aroma, I treated myself to a few pieces of my Toblerone, which I had actually brought with me for the higher camps. But if icv doesn't get my stomach under control soon, there will be no higher camps for me. In addition, Phunuru shared with us local medicines, blessed by the Dalai Lama himself, so that we have a long and healthy life. I am extremely touched by this gesture of Phunuru, he shared something very valuable with us! Last year, after years of waiting, he had the opportunity to visit the Dalai Lama with his family in its Winter Palace and only yesterday he told us with shining eyes about this moment so important to him. Phunuru is very religious, prays very much and is extremely careful for his fellow human beings. He deserves in my eyes to meet and even touch his big idol.
Now I hope that this medicine will do its thing with the rice, so that my stomach finally, finally calms down. I'm spending the afternoon in my tent right now, because I got cold in the tent. Nicely tucked up in the sleeping bag I try to sleep for an hour and then continue reading.
Thursday, 12.September - Manaslu Basecamp 🤩
It's Thursday the 12th. September shortly after 14h. A few minutes ago I snuggled back into my sleeping bag after sitting in our tent for almost 6 hours. Today is our day of rest and as it seems, also the day of rest of the sun. This morning the rain woke me up, which has not stopped since. In addition, it is much cooler than on other days here at Basecamp. Nevertheless, today is the first day since we left Kathmandu, on which I feel 100% healthy again. But I still like to accept the hours of rain and the cold. But since my feet in the dining tent slowly but surely mutated into ice cubes, I decided to change places beforehand. And in the sleeping bag I now also have a little desire to bring you up to date.
We had stopped on Tuesday evening before our last acclimatization hike, after I had managed to eat the plate empty at every meal: rice for lunch and dinner and a toast for breakfast. On the best evening I sat as usual after the meal a little more in the dining tent to read, there we had a small heating. But I was tired from the day and therefore decided to go back to the tent after a chapter. On the short way I already realized that I would end up in the toilet tent again very soon. It was just enough to put my e-reader and cell phone in the tent and then they saw me running to the toilet tent. Fortunately, the button of my pants has been open all day, because sitting a lot would otherwise be uncomfortable. Since you generally try to breathe as little as possible in the toilet tent and I also had my buff in front of my nose, I came out of the tent quite short of breath, only to get abnormal stomach cramps seconds later. Standing straight was no longer possible, walking only very slowly and breathing was not exactly easy either.
So I stood out there in the dark and wondered if I should just stop or go into the tent. So I leaned against the stone wall right next to me and hoped that the pain would go away as quickly as it had come. After a few minutes I got cold and I tried to get rid of the pain with another trip to the toilet. Unfortunately, this project did not work and so I lay down in my sleeping bag with pain, with the high water bottle on my stomach, in the hope that this would improve the situation. I was actually able to find a reasonably comfortable position that was endureable - at least for a few minutes. Nevertheless, the prospect of a night with pain of this kind was not an option. I thought about what I could do, whether I should wake up Phunuru or just throw in painkillers. But the decision was taken from me, because I was also sick from the pain and the stomach grumbled dangerously again and under no circumstances did I want to ruin my tent. So I crawled half-agonizing out of my sleeping bag back outside and into the toilet tent. After all, I was accurate there as always, but the nausea in there still increased. So as soon as I was dressed again, I jumped out of the tent as quickly as possible to choke out all the painstakingly eaten meals from the whole day. I was happy that in the meantime it was half past eleven and I was all alone outside. I was hungry, stomach pains up to ten and the entire overcoming to eat and drink for the cat. I got my water bottle, rinsed my mouth and took a lollipop so I could get rid of the pale taste. Back in the tent I felt a little better, weak, but the pain was gone except for a little. Now I had to start drinking again, and the thoughts began to circle, because where should I find the energy for the next day? I had trouble falling asleep afterwards, but when the time came, I didn't wake up until the sun shone on the tent.
Every morning we have to briefly report to Phunuru how we are doing. I was afraid to tell him about my night, because today our last acclimatization was planned before the rotation on the mountain. Of course, he was not very enthusiastic, and only thought that we would slowly run out of time. That was already clear to me yesterday, which is why I had started taking antibiotics and the hope for the medicine was now my only hope for improvement, which I still had left. For breakfast I ate toast with Nutella again and when preparing for the hike I felt anything but energized. But I still wanted to participate at least a part, because the plan was to go to the crampon point of the route. The first 20 minutes were horrible, my legs very weak and the path very steep. But after the first break, my body seemed to think that it is used to walking on an empty stomach from my hikes in Switzerland. I went a little slower like the others, but once again nice and steady towards the goal. About 1.5h later we arrived at the Crampon-point at 5285m and I was overjoyed that I had made it and felt reasonably good about it. The Crampon point is the place where we come to the glacier and mount the large mountain boots, including crampons and climbing harness. We brought the shoes with us and put them in a bin so that we don't have to carry them up every time. After a longer break, during which we could also partially look at the further route, we went back down to the base camp in about 40 minutes, where another plate of rice was waiting for me. In the afternoon the rain came again, so that I mostly dozzed in the sleeping bag, read or played on my mobile phone and also briefly looked at the cafeteria. This is another tent that was set up especially for us, the 14peaks and the Seven Summit treks people and has a coffee machine and lots of fresh luggage ready. You can use each other, order coffee and exchange ideas with the other mountaineers. The movement did us all good and I felt much better than in the morning. I just hoped I wouldn't have to go through the same story again after dinner. The fear was unfounded, because icv was so tired after the next plate of rice that I was already in the sleeping bag at 20h and could fall asleep shortly afterwards - without grumbling in my stomach or pain. And now it's just said Thursday, on which I felt very good for the first time after waking up.
After more than 40 minutes, the rain has not stopped and according to the forecast, it will not stop until tomorrow evening. We'll see. Tomorrow is the Puja for us after breakfast. We are so ziemlicv the last expedition that carries this out, all the others are therefore already on the Berh acclimatizing or will climb back to the base camp tomorrow. So we will ask for the safe ascent in the rain. I will still be able to enjoy the Puja, since I have already read about this ritual for many hours and it is only my second Puja after the one at the Ama.
Right after the Puja, we will then set off to start our rotation.
For this we go tomorrow to Crampon point, where we get our mountain boots out of the barrel. Then it goes over the glacier for about 1.5 hours to Camp 1. We will stay there for 2 nights. In between, we will rest or let off steam in the glacier. On Sunday we will continue to Camp 2, where we will also spend 2 nights, if everything goes according to plan. On Monday we would like to go in the direction of Camp 3 and take full advantage of the acclimatization. On Tuesday we go all the way back to the base camp, where we can rest from the rotation. So much for the plan. Now I finish my remarks, warm my hands a little in the sleeping bag and maybe dost for a round. I am finally doing wonderfully and I am very happy to finally be able to explore and get to know the mountain. It seems absolutely feasible and I am ready to face this challenge and full of anticipation for the rotation over the weekend.
Sunday, 15.September - Camp 1
I lie in the warm tent at 5761m in Camp 1 and listen to the busy and hectic events outside. The sun shines without mercy on my house, which is why I have all the windows open. I just made a puzzle and took a few photos with the Theos. Although the motto is that we carry as little as possible, I could not leave the Theos in the base camp for 4 days. So far, they definitely like it.
We had to postpone our complete rotation by a day because the weather on Friday was miserable. Incestant rain, gusts of wind and that all day. The Puja was a challenge for everyone. First, a dense shelter had to be built from ladders and a slab. Then the mattress for the llama and his assistant to be brought dry to the shelter. The Juniper was wet and had to be lit, while the offerings also had to be brought to the Pujastein. All the Sherpas helped, but we still started a little late. The Puja lasted about 2 hours, during which the llama and his assistant incessantly sang the prayers, often with drum support. The prayers are always dependent on the environment, because not only the mountain to be climbed is important, but also all those around it. At Manaslu these are some things that can be sung. In between, drinks and food are always thrown into the sky, candles are lit and more junipers are burned. At some point, the prayer flags are unpacked, tied to a post and hung in 5 directions over the camp. And all this happened in the pouring rain. Towards the end, rice and flour are distributed and thrown into the air on command. After that, each individual participant was blessed separately with a lucky band and a white kata, that we will have a safe passage on the mountain.
We could also take a group photo with the llama before he went to the next Puja. The poor had 3 Pujas on the rainy day and after that he got something for dinner in our tent, and a place to sleep before he walked back to Damagaon the next day at 6h.
After the Puja, we first warmed up a little in the dining tent before I left for the tent to pack the rest for the rotation. On Saturday we woke up again the raindrops. It was a beautiful morning, which we tackled comfortably. First ftühstücken, discuss the way again, finish packing, eat a light lunch and then shortly after 12h we left. The path was very wet and just before the end of the base camp there was snow. Nevertheless, it is good to walk. At the Crampon point we changed our shoes and went on for another 2 hours to the upper camp 1. the lower one would have been closer, but 150m lower again. Arrived at Camp 1, hot tea and a great tent awaited us. Unfortunately, I didn't feel so great after the arrival, which then culminated in an empty stomach again. The dinner was therefore canceled for me and I ended up in bed at 6pm.
I tried to drink regularly at night, which I succeeded. But I couldn't eat. I was also tormented by severe headaches, but I had already thrown up the tablets, so I wanted to take more. Nevertheless, I was also able to sleep a little and when the sun woke me up shortly before 6h, I felt quite okay. I was even able to squeeze some cornflakes for breakfast. After breakfast we got ready to go a bit into the glacier towards Camp 2. The goal was to go up for about 1 hour and we ended up at the foot of the first very long steep spot. There was a bit of a jam, which is why we decided to turn back there. By then we had come about a kilometer and 230 meters of altitude. I guess it was about a quarter of the way to Camp 2. We'll find out tomorrow if I'm right. It was very hot, which is why I suffered a little today. Especially against the background that I had hardly eaten again. We only needed half an hour back and so we sat back in the tent at 11 a.m. A short time later we got lunch. I ate cornflakes again because it went down so well in the morning. For dinner, I try to eat something real again. Today, many come up from the base camp, which is why dozen tent platforms are smoothed and tents are set up. Let's see what the night will be like with so many people up here.
We made friends with Allan and Tim from Everest One in Samagaon, who are each one day behind us on the schedule. Yesterday they also came up to Camp 1. Unfortunately, Tim got such a strong back pain during the ascent that it took him a whole 7 hours until he finally arrived. After that he immediately put himself in the sleeping bag and since then he could no longer walk or stand in pain. Eating is also not possible and breathing is very difficult. We are all sorry to see him like this and we all hoped that he would greet us in the dining tent after our little hiking trip today. Unfortunately, he is no better at all, not even with media. Fortunately, Phunuru was able to organize a rescue flight during the afternoon. If the weather keeps what it promises, Tim will be picked up tomorrow morning by helicopter, and with a stopover at the base camp, where his bags are invited, direct to the hospital in Kathmandu. Allan tries to fly, but this is probably not possible for insurance reasons. If so, he will go to the base camp tomorrow after the departure from here, pack his bags and then go on down to Samagaon, where he can hopefully take a helicopter the day after tomorrow to meet Tim again in Kathmandu. Tim is doing well with this decision, safety comes before and such a flight is much less risky than from Camp 2, or even worse, somewhere in between. We feel for him, and hope that he will soon feel better and will be able to breathe again with all the oxygen in the city. This story shows how quickly the dream of the ascent can be over and how lucky we can consider ourselves for the last 2 weeks.
I have already eaten dinner (I could eat a little fried rice) and am now back in the not so warm tent, where I will read a few more chapters until a little peace returns in the camp.
Wednesday, 18.September - Manaslu Basecamp 🤩
The second night in Camp 1 was a little louder than the first. Next to my tent, another tent had been set up shortly before dark and apparently there was a good snorer in it. Nevertheless, I got a few hours of sleep in my small yellow home. We were about to go up to the second camp the next day and I was looking forward to the day in the ice fall. We first ate our breakfast, for me it was again a bit of cornflakes with black tea, and packed our material that we needed in camp 2 in a bag. Our Sherpas Ang Karma, Chirrin and Mingma would bring our sleeping bags, down pants and thick down jackets for us to the next camp. We carried up our rainwear, drinks and snacks. The weight distribution is of course in a huge imbalance, but we did our best to take as little as possible. We also said goodbye to Tim and Allen, who expected Tim to be blown out in the early morning hours. Until then, no one knew that the saving helicopter would not arrive until the next morning. Phunuru let us go specially with Ang Karma so that he could instruct the expected Heli. He waited in camp 1 to half past 1 and when the weather did not get better, he still came to us instead of continuing to hope that the helicopter would come. The cloud cover between base camp and camp 1 was unfortunately just too thick for the flight. We didn't notice anything about it, we were in the middle of the glacier, surrounded by crevices. Always nicely secured on the excellently attached fixed ropes. The route is explained quite simply. First she meanders for approx. 20 minutes around the cracks. Then it goes up an ice wall 5m steeply, before it comes back to a reasonably flat to the first steep stretch. This is about 30m long and easy for us to walk. Then comes the only ladder that there is to cross, about 7m long and over a not really visible gap. Then it goes up again twice 5m steeply, before the next short traverse leads to the next long steep section. This in turn is about 25-30m vertical. Unfortunately, we had to wait about 20 minutes there, because the group in front of us did not exactly have the fastest climbers. Unfortunately, after overcoming this vertical, we took a break at the same time, like the slow ones before us. That took its revenge at the third steep place. This is about 60m high and, like all other steep steps, has a fixed rope for climbing and one for descending. So if now a climber hangs on the climbing rope and can't or doesn't want to move anymore, that means stop for everyone. We were able to watch all the hustle and bustle for 40 minutes, until it was finally our turn. Fortunately, the weather was okay and no one was cold. We didn't lose our sense of humor, but knew that we had to avoid this situation in the future, as it could quickly tip over because of safety.
After the last steep section, there are another 40 minutes of trusses until you reach the lower part of Camp 2. However, we continued over a last hill, as our tents are at the upper end of Camp 2. We reached this after about 4 hours and in the best of health. None of us suffered from the height, and everyone had enjoyed the climb to the fullest despite waiting time. We now had all the time in the world to inflate our mattresses, roll out the sleeping bag and drink and eat as much as possible. When asked where to pee, Ang Karma grabbed a shovel and built us a small toilet. The rest of the afternoon we dozed, I read or watched the clouds move over the many high mountains. The full view was not yet shown to us that day. Nevertheless, the majority of the sun was shining and it was correspondingly warm in the tent. Shortly after 3, Phunuru suddenly stood in front of my tent with a huge grin. We didn't actually expect e4 to come up, because we had noticed over the radio that there was no helicopter flight weather. But he probably didn't want to leave us up here alone. He was also a little stuck in traffic, but was probably less patient than we were. Shortly before 18h we got a spicy vegetable soup for dinner, which was rounded off with rice. I managed to get half of the bowl in my stomach. After that it got cold quickly and I disappeared in my sleeping bag for my highest night ever. Because on all my mountain adventures my highest night was at 6000m and today we climbed up to 6269m.
Basically, I slept well, although I often woke up. When I had to peel myself out of my sleeping bag to pee, I was rewarded with a cloudless sky. The hills above Camp 2 illuminated by the full moon and beautiful. Precisely because of such moments I still don't want to pee into a pee bottle in the tent, but accept the few minutes of cold outside the sleeping bag. According to Phunuru, all camps are safe and flat enough for my project. Let's see how it really is up there. In any case, my alarm clock woke me up from sleep shortly before 6h. The plan for the next day was simple: breakfast at 6h and depending on how we are all doing, we either go up the mountain or down the mountain. Since we all felt magnificent, we decided to walk towards Camp 3 for an hour and take a long break there. So we trudged at a leisurely pace to Camp 3 and apparently we managed almost half of the route in time. Phunuru left us the decision whether we wanted to go all the way to the camp, but the view was so beautiful and the way to the base position4 was still so far that we decided not to go any higher. So we stayed almost an hour at almost 6489m and simply enjoyed the fantastic view of the many different mountain ranges.
After that we went back to the camp in just under 15 minutes, where we got tea and packed all our material back together. I got the sleeping bag into the packing bag surprisingly quickly, compared to the height at which we were. Shortly after 10h we made our way to our familiar base camp to successfully complete the rotation.
What we didn't know is that almost half of the population of the base camp on that day was in the ascent to Camp 1 or 4 Camp 2.. already at the first steep step we had to wait a few minutes until the descent rope was empty. At the next level it was even worse. Both ropes were used by very slow climbers, who also blocked each other. We waited about half an hour until finally a rope was empty and Phunuru could move down. He clarified the conditions down there relatively quickly and allowed us to finally abseil down. Also at the next abseiling point the same picture could be seen, only that we only had to wait for 3-4 climbers. At the trusses we crossed dozens of very slow climbers with their guides and it was clear to all of us that we had to prevent ourselves from getting stuck behind one of these groups on our summit attempt.
In Camp 1 there was soup and snacks with tea after just over 2 hours of descent and we went through all our material again. We can temporarily store many things here for the summit experiment. After that it went down another hour with the descent to Crampon Point. Here, too, we crossed dozens of, partly very slow climbers. The shoe change at the Crampon point was a blessing and the remaining 45 minutes towards the base camp a comfortable run-out of the rotation. Arrived at the camp we were all very satisfied with the past few days and all three of us were happy to be re-entry of civilization. If you can call it that compared to everyday life at home.
First we enjoyed a late lunch, it was already after 14h and after that we could enjoy a hot shower in turn. What a treat after 10 days without a shower. My hair didn't know what happened to them at first ;)
After the shower we spent time in the warm dining tent so as not to get cold because of the wet hair and to report to the outside world that we are back. For dinner there was Chinese food at its best. For me, but the others enjoyed it in full deductions. And to be honest, it was also nice to get something else besides rice and carrots. After dinner, our Sherpas also came over to toast together to the successful rotation. At 8 p.m. it was with the three of us but then end terrain, we were too tired from the long day and the rather short, restful night to stay awake even longer. So we said goodbye to our heroes and all happily slipped into the sleeping bag.
Thursday, 19.September - Manaslu Base Camp
The first night back at the base camp was wonderfully relaxing. I almost slept through and felt very rested in the morning, although it was only shortly before 6 o'clock in the morning. I used the rest before breakfast to read a little more. Today was our first planned day off and it should be completely stress-free for us. At 8h I sat in the dinner tent and in exchange it became obvious that everyone had a great night. I'm extremely happy about that, because it's even better for the group if everyone is doing well. Phunuru was definitely also very happy when he heard that we all slept great.
The current remaining days are mainly there to eat as much as possible, to rest and to eat again. Since my stomach and my head have calmed down in the meantime, it is much less difficult for me to eat. I can overcome myself a little and even eat a little over my hunger. Not that I – apart from last night – would have been hungry...
But whatever. Since today was beautiful and sunny, Wolkenstein's weather, we used the day to do a little laundry. This is very old school here. You get one of his with hot water and then a bowl, which you fill with warm water as needed. Then you take a piece of clothing and a soap and off you go. Our handle was mainly to give the clothes a better taste. They didn't have to be clean, but smell cleaner than before ;)
I actually still had enough clothes, but I still washed a lot so that I could put on a fresh shirt even after the summit storm in Samagaon. You never know how long you'll get stuck in the shower somewhere on the way back. I say this because I still owe you the rest of the story of Tim and Allan.
Maybe you remember Tim, who should be picked up in Camp 1 with the helicopter. The flight weather was not good on Monday and so the poor guy had to endure in the tent until Tuesday morning. So everything he had packed together, unpack again for the night and pack it again the next day. He was flown out to Kathmandu at about the same time as we were on our way to Camp 3. The helicopter made a stopover in the base camp to take his things there as well. Our kitchen treasure Devras had packed his bags the day before.
However, Allan's Odyssey is not over yet. After the helicopter was gone, he set off on foot with Dawa, her Nepali guide, to the base camp. In the case of a rescue, the pilot is only allowed to take exactly one person with him, otherwise it is no longer valid as a rescue flight, but as passenger transport and then the permit does not count and the insurance does not pay either. Quite a lot of bureaucracy for such a country. When Allan and Dawa were in the base camp, they packed their 7 things and went straight on to Samagaon. Obviously they are still there, waiting for a helicopter to fill. Because at the moment it is not necessary and chartering an empty helicopter costs around 4000$. In the worst case, Allan will still be stuck in Samagaon when we get back from our summit tour. I feel a little sorry for him because he can't really take care of Tim in Kathmandu.
Now back to our day at Basecamp. The washing was comfortable and we had enough ropes to hang our wet shirts, socks, etc. in the sun. This was very strong, so that in the evening most of it was already dry. We sat in the sun until lunch and exchanged ideas with each other and with other expedition participants. There are many on the mountain at the moment, but someone is always there. I also had the opportunity to talk to a legend. Kamirita Sherpa should be known to anyone who has ever read about records in the Himalayas. He has climbed Everest 2x this year and now a total of 30 climbs in his portfolio. Not to mention the dozen other 8000m peaks that he has successfully climbed. I have admired Kamirita for years, because he climbs the peaks with customers and I can't imagine that he had all 30x good, fit, humble people with him. He radiates a certain calm and a natural interest and it was truly an honor that he took the time to chat with me. He and Phunuru have been friends for decades and have already spent a lot of time together on the mountain. I couldn't resist and had to take a picture with this legend. Similar to Roger Federer for tennis, Kamirita Sherpa is the influence for the Nepalese Sherpas. So if you have never heard of him before, you should google it as soon as possible.
Lunch was used to fill our energy storage and was a burger with potatoes. I ate it whole, even though it has too much cheese in it for me. But just: Calories have to be and if overcoming it already works, then I also take advantage of it nicely.
In the afternoon the clouds came slowly and I strolled from tent to tent to cafe tent and back again. I wanted to finish reading my book, did one of the puzzles I brought with me again and talked to my sister and mother on the phone for a few more minutes.
Today starts the puzzle world championship, which I unfortunately miss this year. It's hard for me to just sit around and eat today, while I could actually get my top 10 place at the World Cup, which I narrowly missed last year. But it's part of the game that I have to do without other great experiences for my Everest project from time to time. That's one of the reasons why I'm somehow happy when Everest is no longer Allan, but memory. Until then, it's still a little bit and I have to be able to put up with it. Today it is very difficult for me, especially when I saw the puzzles in the first round. I would have rocked that like that!
Well, I had an exciting book that I could finish reading. Book No. 4 is now ready. For dinner we got spaghetti on hot stone with fried egg and potatoes. The chef's menu plan is clear: carbohydrates and proteins on the rest days ;)
After that yesterday I finally wrote the blog ready for the days on the mountain and tried to mock my mother a little in the livestream. Since the wifi was too weak for that, it didn't quite work out. After all, I managed to load the results page, so that I knew how she had cut before going to bed. My onschwettet was next, but that was too late for me. I couldn't fall asleep for a long time, but it wasn't that bad.
Today I woke up rested and the first thing I did was of course to check the results of the World Cup. My sister also managed to finish the puzzle, which makes me really proud of the two of them. Unfortunately, both did not qualify for the semi-finals in their qualifying groups, but they had fun and that is the main thing. Today at 4 p.m. the couple is on time and they are much better off. I hope the livestream will work tonight.
For us breakfast was at 8am again. This time toast and banana lassi, of which I even ordered a supplement. Now it's almost 9.30h and my plan is to upload this blog afterwards and then paint a little in the sun. It's another magnificent day and we have to enjoy it. The weather forecast for the next few days is good and there is actually nothing between us and the summit attempt, except for the remaining days. What I forgot: yesterday afternoon, at about 15.30h, the fixing team reached the summit. This means that the route is open and the most important part is reached when you climb an 8000m peak. The boys are now safe again in the base camp for recreation. I am infinitely grateful to them for doing this difficult, exhausting and dangerous job for us. Without it, it would not even be possible to dream of reaching such a summit.
Saturday, 21.September - Manaslu Basecamp 🤩
Not much has happened since my last entry. On Thursday I was in the sun all morning with my Matress. Stretched and read and drank.
After lunch, the program was about the same, except that I mainly sat on the chair outside. In addition, we have prepared our snacks for the summit storm in the afternoon. The goal is not to have too much and not too little with you. We were allowed to choose as many snacks as we wanted in the logistics tent. Dinner in Camp 4 also had to be chosen. I brought something from home because I was almost sure that the selection would not correspond to my stomach. I was right, so I'm happy about my foresight and the pack of noodles with vegetables. I didn't really pick much of the snacks. I prefer to stick to my usual bars and M&m's.
After the selection we had to divide these into 2 bags: C3 and higher will be carried up by our Sherpas tomorrow and C1-C3 will be carried by us. We also had to have our summit gloves, hand warmers, summit socks, etc. ready until dinner, as our Sherpas will also take them with us tomorrow. The goal is a light backpack for us, so that we can save energy and thus have enough in the quiver for the summit.
For dinner there were fine potatoes and I managed once again to eat the plate empty. But I'm already looking forward to it when I don't have to eat 3 times a day anymore.
The night on Friday was nice and relaxing again, I sleep really well on this mattress. The brightness wakes me up around 6 hours. Which is not so bad, because at this time the Wi-Fi usually works quite reliably. Yesterday I used the time to get back up to date with the puzzle world championship. Yesterday afternoon the Wi-Fi was unusable. So I only learned on Friday morning that my sister and mother in the pair category missed the qualifying for the semi-finals by 10 seconds and a missing part. I think that's a shame for the two of them! But you will certainly be able to continue to enjoy your time in Valladolid.
Yesterday, after breakfast, we had time to familiarize ourselves with the oxygen system. From Camp 3 we will start to sleep with oxygen and also the walking will also be done with oxygen. At first I had a mask in size M, which reached almost to my eyes. She somehow didn't feel so perfect. That's why Phunuru went in search of an S-mask, which he quickly found. This hurts a little on the bridge of the nose, but fits much better. The pain will then probably be able to be hidden in height or I have to adjust to it. But I'll manage that. It feels a bit like the children's diving goggles of the past. The mask is made of hard rubber and that still feels a little weird. The regulation and control of whether the oxygen flows correctly, we now also know. Just in case, I know what to do. We will use 1800l in 7kg bottles. Which should be enough for us even with a high flow rate. I'm curious to see how the running and sleeping will be with it. I hope it's really a relief and not an agiment.
After the oxygen exercise, it was time for lunch again: tagliatelle with potatoes. This time I even took 2x reference and then sat spherically at the table. My pants are getting a little uncomfortable again, so I used the rest days well to gain a little energy again :)
I spent the afternoon in my tent. Because it rained a little again and it always gets a little cooler in the tent. So I played a little, read on in my meanwhile 5. Book and made mrine pharmacy still ready. I don't have to take the whole ration of tablets and patches with me. Again, not too much and not too little. I was also able to talk to Raphael on the phone one last time before the summit. But it is now quite difficult for me not to think about the summit attempt. It feels like a big white elephant would constantly walk with me and I should completely ignore it. This gets more tedious and more. That's why I'm glad we can start on Saturday, so today.
The night was great again, I could fall asleep relatively quickly and only woke up 2-3x briefly.
The plan for today is simple: have breakfast, pack a backpack, load all the equipment, have an early lunch and then go to camp between 12.30 and 13h. Tomorrow we go from c1 to C3, with a short drinking break in C2. On Monday we go the long stretch from C3 to C4 and on the night to Tuesday we go from C4 to the summit and then everything down again. My goal is to be back in the base camp on Tuesday evening. We'll see if my legs and my head will do the same. If it doesn't work, I'll spend the night somewhere in C2 or C1 and be back at the base camp on Wednesday. Roughly, I'm about 20 hours of walking time from the summit and 30 hours of walking time from the return to the base camp. That should be possible, right?! I'm in a good mood and a little nervous. But I prepared myself well and also feel very good. The first summit climbers have returned to the base camp in the last two days, which was audibly celebrated. That made me a little jealous. In addition, I often wonder how I will feel after returning, regardless of whether I reach the summit or not. And Asha, a young American of Indian descent, left for the summit yesterday.
I would have liked to go with you, because the rest days are really not completely without. We will cross Asha on Monday and hopefully congratulate her. The reason why I would have preferred to leave yesterday than today is the weather. From the evening of the 25th, a large thunderstorm front should come, which will last until the 1st. October should be held. I can already see us stuck in Samagaon for a few days because the helicopters can't fly. From my own experience, I know that I would find that very bad. Because after an expedition I'm always drawn home. That's why I just hope that everything goes well with the summit attempt and that we might have a little luck on our return to Kathmandu.
But now it's time for the last Basecamp breakfast until Wednesday 🤗
Saturday, 21.September - Manaslu Base Camp to Camp 1
Today we started with our summit rotation. We started the day as usual with breakfast at 8am. We would only start walking after lunch, which is why we started the day comfortably. Everyone was loading their seven electronics so that we could take pictures safely on the mountain. I then went to my tent to pack my backpack again and make sure I didn't take too much and not too little with me. After that I read a little more until I thought it was ready for lunch. It gsb spring rolls with potatoes and eggs and I like to gsb my spring rolls. For this I took a second portion of Nartoffeln. After lunch there was another small mini-puja before we applied. These mini-pujas always make me extremely emotional, because you just never know if they really give you the protection you hope for. The first meters were then difficult, because I was fully aware that it is now really and really starting. We already know the way to Crampon Point inside out. Today the snow had melted away again up to the barrel with our shoes and we arrived there in 1 hour and 10 minutes. The shoe change was also done quickly and it continued towards Camp 1. On the way, nothing worth mentioning happens, except that a crack was now too big to jump over it. That is why there is now a 50m detour and a ladder is already ready, in case the situation changes even more. After almost 4.5 hours we were already in Camp 1, ready to use our rest time here. We set up our tents, got various cups of tea and had an early dinner. This time, with the help of my sea salt, I made my whole bowl of white rice. I was proud and knew I would sleep well. I feel ready for the exhausting day tomorrow, because we would go from camp 1 directly to camp 3.
Sunday, 22.September - Camp 1 to Camp 3
Today was designed so that we would not be stuck in traffic jams in ice falls. In our rotation we stood around at 2 of 3 steep walls for a long time, because there was only one rope for the ascent and many inexperienced/incompetent people in front of us. We wanted to avoid this situation, which is why we started at 5.45h from Camp 1. Breakfast was at 4.30h and was brought to us, including hot tea, directly into the tent. I had decided on muesli and it didn't even work that badly. With enough tea it is not too dry and there are at least a few calories. We were not the first to leave the camp, but since most of them are currently enjoying their rest days in the base camp, or are already back from the summit, it was quite quiet. We were able to take time with each steep wall and thus move continuously. The ladder was no longer horizontal, but beveled, which made it easier to walk it. Next to it, however, is a rather oblique Serac, which does not look quite so calming. We assume that he will no longer stand there when we descend again. We'll see. Otherwise, the climb to Camp 2 was stress-free and great. In Camp 2 it was time to rest for 2 hours, because we want to continue in Camp 3. We got hot drinks, something to eat and since we won't have much rest, it was planned that we will go from C2 with oxygen. I think that's semi great, but that way I can at least test the system on a route that I've already half walked. When testing the masks in the base camp, I couldn't quite imagine walking with all the Krimskrams.
And so we were ready to fly in the direction of Camp 3 for almost 3 hours after arrival in C2, with the oxygen masks on our face, the bottles in the backpack. It's one thing to have a mask on your face, it's another to suddenly have 7.5kg in your back. Nevertheless, the walk went amazingly well. After about an hour I got side pricks, as I didn't seem to eshale enough. I had the same problem with swimming in college, but since I knew what to pay attention to, I was able to get it under control before we arrived at Camp 3. On the way Phunuru also measured our oxygen value and lo and behold, I had a sooting of still 92% at around 6500m. The way from C2-C3 took only 2h and when we saw the tents, I was already happy, it was almost 1000hm, which we brought behind us in about 6h. When we arrived, we were in the middle of the sea of clouds, but after a few hours, we had a bomb prospect. I also used the rest time again to make a puzzle. I brought 3 to the base camp, but I only take one with me on your summit rotation. I even managed to take a pick-up photo in front of the mountain and in front of the view. Since we would leave tomorrow morning and Phunuru would like to plan 12h rest time for us, I already lay down for 16h and tried to doze off a little. That also worked with the mask to some extent, but I was awake longer than I slept at night.
I think now is the right time to tell a little secret. At the end of July I had ordered a sleeping bag from Phunuru. His friends from Everest Outfit make them according to customer requirements. I know since I followed Allie Pepper and her oxygen-free peak attempts at 8000s that it is possible to get sleeping bags in purple. That's why I had a purple sleeping bag made with a middle zipper for -40 degrees. We picked up this sleeping bag in the store before our flight to Samagaon. When I saw the color, I couldn't resist, and asked if they could also measure me a down suit. Normally it takes at least 4 weeks and 2-3 weeks before that until the draft is on paper. But since I had been thinking about having a suit tailored since the Ama (and at home always came to the reasonable end that this is not necessary), I knew exactly what the suit had to look like. I explained it to the owner of Everest outfit, he asked for 2-3 things and already 2 hours later I had the draft via Wattsapp via Phunuru. With the suit come 3 badges, which icv could also determine. So from the 2nd I worked diligently on my suit in September, with the aim of sending it to the base camp before our summit ascent. Phunuru knows almost every pilot, but I wouldn't have expected it to work in time. Do you remember poor Tim who had to be flown out of Camp 1 with the helicopter? Exactly that helicopter flight gave me 40 birthdays together. The pilot brought my special delivery. And all I can say is, it took me about 5 seconds to cry when I saw my perfect suit! He is more beautiful than I dreamed him and the badges are perfect! More I don't go at all, at least I think! It was the best decision to have the suit made and I don't regret it for a second. Tomorrow I will be able to wear it for the first time and I am really looking forward to it!
Sunday, 23.September - Camp 3 to Camp 4
Steep. I think everyone who reads this has their own definition. Anyone who has read my blog about the summit day at the Ama thinks that he has an idea of steepness in the mountains. Everyone who has ever sat with me in the 2CV knows that with a tank full you can't drive on such insanely steep roads. In the past, the Tour de France stages were driven with a 2CV and depending on the gear used, the steepness was noted in the course book: 1 was very steep here. I would classify today's mountain stage with 0. No 2CV would ever drive one meter of what we climbed today, regardless of the base. In some cases, memories of the Ama summit day actually came up. We knew that the way from C3 to C4 would be our royal stage, but somehow no one had ever explained why 😉
Well, we can now explain it: after 15 minutes of walking I was already soaking wet from sweat and that did not change for the next 5 hours. From C3 to C4 you go with the down suit, because otherwise you would have to wear it up. Steep+down suit = very warm internal temperature. It almost doesn't matter that it's almost windless at the upper mountain at the moment and the air temperature is also only in the single-digit minus range. So I carried my own lake up this steep mountain 😂 and I mean it in my brand new suit. Oh, how happy I was that I have large ventilation slots on both my legs and between my arms.
But now to the steepness of the day.
Right at the beginning it starts comfortably with a small moderate slope and a traverse. If you get around the corner, it starts with the steep, um fun. Meter by meter you have to climb up. Of course with large steps, otherwise I would not mention it. Meter-high steps like on the Ama were left out, but for a rather small lady the steps are simply a little too big. I'm high on the fact that I only complained to my Sherpa Chirrin after 2.5 hours... no idea what he was thinking when I didn't want to breathe during a break, but wanted to discuss the size of the steps. By the way, it is the same Chirrin who was there at the Ama and completed the descent from C2 with me. At least this time there was a little variety: steep in the blue ice, steep in solid snow and my new favorite: steep in the soft snow. You can take every step halfway again, because it's so great to slip. That's a lot of fun if you add the lake...
Irony aside, the funny thing is that it actually never completely denied me the fun. I suffered again, because of my ascender, at least only today and not earlier. Strength training for the arms is definitely on the plan in the next 6 months. But my legs are fit, they can still climb the last steep ramp after 4.5 hours. My shoulders also participate when it comes to carrying the backpack with the 1800l of oxygen in the bottle. But that damn Ascender... after all, I was so intelligent today that I alternated left and right. Now both arms are tired, but at least I can still use them.
The view on the way to C4 was getting better and better. At first we were at the same level as the foothill next to C3. Then it suddenly disappeared in the clouds. Then we only saw a sea of clouds and when we were 5' away from Camp 4, we were in the middle of a thick cloud. This has now given way to the bright blue sky and the route towards the summit is at least partially visible. According to Ang Karma it is much lighter on the summit day. Only 3x steep and the rest Nepali flat. I don't know if I've already explained the term: Nepali flat means that it's anything but flat. It goes up and down, but never steep. Because then it would be called Nepali steep. By the way, that was the explanation from today: it was 5 hours and 11 minutes long Nepali steep. At least for me. JC arrived about 10' after me, Dean needed another hour longer. His body needs more recovery from the ascent days, but you don't always get that up here. But he made it this far and at Manaslu they say, whoever makes it to C4, also makes it to the summit. We are now curious to see if this statement also applies to us. I think I'll make it. So much steep today should be worthwhile 😉
Today's original plan would actually have been the following: start at 5h, go to C4 in 5h. Take a break for 2 hours and then go to the summit for the second 5 hours, so that we will be there shortly before sunset. Then go down to the camp, which is most sympathetic to you. The reasons for this plan are as follows: from the evening of mirgen Tuesday, bad weather with a lot of snow will arise and everyone in the base camp at the end of the rest day has also noticed this and is on the way up here. We are talking about 300 people. The situation at the Manaslu summit is like this: there is a false and a true summit. Anyone who has read a little newspaper last year will surely have noticed this. From the false summit it goes down about 10m and then you traverse 10m and then it goes about 15m steeply up to the true summit. These almost 30m are secured with a single rope. If you want to cross it, you have to stand bombproof. Because if you slip unsecured, you enjoy a pretty long slide. Of course, we don't want to risk that. If only 10 people are waiting at the false summit, you can coordinate that well. At 300 there are certainly some idiots, impatient, overestimating themselves, selfish people who don't care about the safety of others. We also don't want to wait 2 hours at the false summit to get to the true summit. That's why we thought our plan would be good. But since we want to celebrate the summit success as a team, the plan will be adjusted a little. The 300 people are still far away, so we'll see how it turns out. Until then, we are lying in the tent in the C4, breathing our oxygen and drinking regularly so that we can regenerate as quickly as possible.
Tuesday, 24.September - life in Camp 4
It's been 2 days since I was on the eighth highest peak in the world. I still lack the words for this achievement. On the other hand, I don't want to wait too long to write down what I'm having experienced. Maybe then I'll be able to understand what I've just achieved.
But let's start from the beginning. We had been allowed to choose our C4 dinner at the Basecamp, which we were already served at 17.30h in the tent. This time the three of us shared a tent, which didn't bother me at all. Everyone had enough space for their mat, sleeping bag and the oxygen tank. We took the backpack to the head of each as a pillow. So we lay, or sat like sardines next to each other in the tent and accepted our dinner. While JC and Dean opted for ramen soup with noodles and rice, I had noodles with vegetables from the Transa in Basel in my luggage. The package was actually for 2 people, but it was the only veggie food I could find and the plan was to just eat as much as I could. Unfortunately, the Sherpas either did not read, did not see, or did not understand the instruction. In any case, there was far too little water in the pack, so the noodles were just through, but the vegetables were not at all.
So the process of eating was even slower, as I had to fish out each macaroni individually with the spoon. But we had time up there in the tent... I think I ate about half of the pasta and didn't even think it was that bad. However, the focus was and is for me in the height more on drinking than eating. This also worked smoothly and whenever the bottle was almost empty, the Sherpas brought us new hot water. After the early dinner it was time for us to keep bed rest. Move as little as possible, maybe even get some sleep and always wear the oxygen mask. I basically adhered to it, but still went out of the tent to pee and used the beautiful blue sky with the sun to take some photos.
I was able to sleep a little at night - or rather in the evening. I woke up when Dean started getting ready at 10:30 p.m. I lay down a little more and tried to get myself mentally ready for 5 hours of running. In the afternoon I thought about how long the summit day would probably last. On the way from C3 to C4 I had made a little gimmick: I took a photo of my watch below the last steep piece and then again at the top to know how long it took me how many meters of altitude. It turned out that it took me about 32 minutes for 130hm. On the day of the summit we had to overcome another 700hm, but according to Sherpa statements, these were no longer as steep as the day before. As if I calculated that we would not have 5 hours on the summit day. But of course I didn't know if I was right or not. The night would show that.
At 11pm Chirring showed up with two cups of tea for me and JC. I was just looking for my sleeping bag cover, because I had supplied the sunscreen in it. I was so stupid to put my bowl of black tea "only briefly" on my sleeping bag and of course I emptied almost a third over my sleeping bag and the zipper. 15 minutes before that happened, I thought it would be good to put my inner shoes in the sleeping bag so that they could warm up a bit. Of course, the black tea now flowed through the zipper directly into my right inner shoe. The disaster was perfect. Now I had wet thermal pants and a wet inner shoe just before we were going to leave for the summit. I tried to clean the mess as well as possible with toilet paper without using all the paper. As in Corona times, toilet paper is a rare thing here and without it you are simply screwed or literally sit in the shit.
After wiping, the tea was at least warm and another bowl of muesli had appeared in Chirrin's hands in the tent entrance. I managed to eat this, although I was still a little annoyed because of the tea poured out. But it didn't help, the inner shoe was wet now, but for the worst case I was wearing heated socks that I could turn on.
JC and I continued to get ready after breakfast. This involved peeling yourself out of the sleeping bag and fighting into the down suit without getting in each other's way, or tearing the oxygen mask from the bottle. I also applied sunscreen to the forehead, in case we were slower than expected. Furthermore, we had to prepare our gloves, the ski goggles, the bars and the water bottles for our Sherpas, as they would carry the material for us. Only the oxygen tank should be in our backpack. I also prepared the bag with the Theos, after all they belong on the summit photo as well as the summit itself.
After that I put on my shoes and tried to tie them as tightly as possible, despite a little cold hands. I noticed on the rotation that I have a lot of play in my shoe when I go down. I wanted to prevent that today. Next, I rolled out of the tent to pee one last time so I could put on my climbing harness. I had bought a light belt after the ama, which you can put on curls while standing without having to go through the leg loops with your feet. This small investment has proven itself so far and made dressing at 7421m so much easier. I'm talking about a height where you can talk well without oxygen or walk slowly. But when I slipped briefly the day before, for example, and was able to catch myself, I was out of breath for 2 minutes. Fortunately, I didn't have to go to the toilet up here, but I could guess how exhausting that could be when I went to Camp 3. JC was not so lucky and was quite out of breath when he sat back in the tent for a few minutes.
After the belt, all that was missing was the tightening of the crampons. These were a little frozen, but putting them on still worked well. By the way, this also takes you out of breath. Even bending down is exhausting, not to talk about putting on the strap properly. So I was ready just before midnight and Chirring helped me put on my backpack. In the meantime, he had changed my oxygen tank, packed it in the backpack and tied everything up. So I put on my armor and the mask over my face. The gloves were also a new acquire and equipped with heating wires. I turned them on as a precaution, because I didn't know how long I had to wait until we could leave. JC was in any case already outside the tent and about to fasten his crampons. Chirring asked again briefly if I had put everything ready for him and grabbed his backpack. In the distance we saw some groups coming up from C3, on the track above Camp 4 there were also a few headlamps. I was wondering if our schedule would work out and we could get around the crowds.
Montag, 24.September - Summit of Manaslu 8163m 🤩
As explained earlier, we had the information that the summit day would be less exhausting than the day before. In Samagaon, Phunuru told us at the time that the way to the summit was only 4 hours. In the last few days, however, a different number haunted around. Various people said yes. Summit is at least 5h, if not even 6h. In the afternoon at Camp 4 I heard that many guides told their customers the same thing. So I prepared myself for 6h suffering when we left Camp 4 shortly after midnight. Due to the short waiting time I had cold fingers, which is why I turned on my heating gloves even before the march. I was curious to see if they worked at this height and I was not disappointed. After a short time I felt Sonja's warmth on my fingers.
The start of the trail was nice and evenly ascending, perfect to get into a good rhythm. Chirring led our group of 4 at a perfect pace. After about 10 minutes we passed a group of tents. I was surprised because I actually thought that Camp 4 was only stationed in one place. At camps 1 and 2 there was always an upper and a lower part, whereby we always stayed in the upper part. This upper camp 4 was just as musy as a hive. The large group I saw coming up when we got ready was apparently fun here. I still remember how I see relief that the mass had just been reduced in the direction of the summit. In addition, I must admit that some of the Westerners looked quite broken out of the laundry, or rather already apathetic, how they squatted motionless on their backpacks. But we didn't care much, after all we had about 12 hours of rest in Camp 4. In the distance we saw some light cones on the way, but I tried to concentrate on myself. So I trudged through the darkness, always careful to follow in the footsteps of Chirring. There was a lot of snow, but the path was very well stepped on. You never fell in and every 50m there was a small flag in the snow that you didn't get lost even in bad weather. Speaking of the weather: when we were getting ready for the camp, a little wind and snowstorms came up. I suppose Cinderella was just swirling snow and no real precipitation. But the wind calmed down after about an hour. All you heard was the clicking of the safety carabiners, the crunching of the crampons on the snow, the rubbing of the Ascenders on the rope and the breathing or coughing of the climbers. All in all, I remember the atmosphere as very peaceful. I can't say exactly what I was thinking in those hours. But I felt great. Had no trouble keeping the pace up, was able to bring my breathing extremely quickly into a normal rhythm during the breaks and felt very comfortable. On other peaks, I never really liked walking in the dark. I always looked for the first light that was to appear on the horizon and until then the suffering was always a little greater.
This time it wasn't like that at all. I walked there and really enjoyed it. And that at over 7500m. I couldn't believe it myself while walking and now - a few days later - still not. Soon came the first steep slope, which, however, tilted more and more gently. Chirring automatically slowed the rhythm without taking more pauses. This is also where oxygen cylinders appeared again and again in the light. These are attached to the anchorages, to which the ropes are also attached. Sherpas have previously carried them up and deposited them in strategically good places. The oxygen cylinders are each marked with glues of the company, so that you do not suddenly take the wrong ones. This system apparently works well here. However, there are no bottles ready for us on the way to the summit, as we changed ours before departure. Even if we would turn it up full, we would have more than enough oxygen for the ascent and descent to Camp 4. There are then at least one spare bottle and each our half-full bottles from the ascent from Camp 3, which we could use in an emergency.
But since I got along great with my ration of 2.5l per minute, I didn't worry about my oxygen on the climb. I was just surprised by how many bottles I met. At the end of the first steep piece, Chirring asked me if I wanted a break. But I felt good and therefore saw no reason to interrupt the rhythm. So we continue to trudge in harmony in our little universe, which is formed by the light of the headlamp. I rarely looked left or right, focused fully on Chirring's footprints and my breathing rhythm. Gradually I began to wonder if the whole ascent would really be so chilled, because I felt really fantastic. I tried to hold back and thought that I would come up early enough in case I still had to suffer. From time to time I looked up to the unknown part of the route and as we overtook people from time to time, the number of headlamps in front of us became less and less. When I dared to look back just before the second steep stretch because I wanted to ask Mingma and JC how things were doing with them, I had to realize that they were far behind us. They seemed to have taken a break from time to time. So I decided to tell Chirring that we could also take a break at the end of the second steep stretch. That took a while, but it was certainly good, because even if I felt great, my body probably still wanted a little fluid. So we sat down next to the route and I drank about 2dl of water.
We sat there for maybe 10 minutes and during that time some much slower climbers overtook us again. I thought that this wouldn't be so bad, since we were already making good progress before and overtaking was no problem. Maybe here as info: from Camp 4 the entire route is not secured with fixed ropes, because the steepness is not high everywhere. Only the 3 steep sections, plus the last 120hm are approximately secured, the rest marked with flags. So if you want to overtake the changing routes, you simply pass right in the deeper snow. This means that you are quite out of breath for a few amounted, but you are quite safe as far as the danger is concerned. But if you now hang behind a slow group in the steep places, then it is better if you simply take over their rhythm and just slow down. That's exactly what we did after our break. I tried not to get too impatient and just thought that I could save energy for the exhausting part of the summit ascent. Because I expected this at any time, marked by the suffering of the summit day at the Ama last year. In one of the breaks I looked up again at the beginning of the snake on the fixed rope and thought I recognized Dean. I saw someone with a white backpack and a red down suit sitting awkwardly and next to him a Sherpa who looked like Ang Karma. It took us another 25 minutes until we were close enough to see that I was right. It turned out that Dean's Ascender no longer worked properly. That's pretty stupid about a mountain like that, because the Ascender is the only tool that prevents you from slipping down the mountain in the event of a fall. In the upward movement it slides uninhibited over the rope, in the downward movement small thorns dig into the rope to lock it. Now Dean sat at almost 8000m, still at least a steep ramp in front of him, without this brake tool. Since I still felt incredibly good and Chirring is a machine anyway, I suggested giving my Ascender to Dean. He didn't want to, Ang Karma was inclusive, or didn't understand me, Chirring didn't care. Unfortunately, changing is not quite so easy, as de4 Ascender is very well attached and connected to the safety carabiner. The change would therefore affect the whole system. While I was thinking about how we could solve the problem, Phunuru also appeared next to us.
He had started as the taillight of our group, had overtaken Mingma and JC at some point, and when he had seen us squirming around Dean, he had added another tooth to get to us. He said to Chirring and me that we should move on, he will take care of the problem. So we went on and left the others behind to solve the problem. Unfortunately, other slow climbers use the time of discussion to overtake us again. Now Chirring and I were behind approx. 20 creepers in the third steep phase. Since it was also his first ascent to Manaslu, we both didn't know how long we would be on the road. In the meantime, almost 3 hours had passed and my watch showed a height of 8021m at the stop with Dean and AngKarma. Apparently Chirring was as impatient as I was, because not long after we started again, he turned around and asked if everything was okay. I replied “everything perfect” and then he said that we would go a little faster. He clicked my safety carabiner, clicked it in, released the Ascender and low it went with us to the fast lane, aka in the deep snow to the right of the standard lane. After just a few steps I was out of breath, but I knew that everyone we were now overtaking would not stand in line in front of us at the summit. After about 15 people, I needed a short breather. So we went back into line and gave ourselves to the slow pace of the others. In the meantime, I thought to myself that it wouldn't really matter if we had to wait at the summit. After all, it was only about half past 4 and still pitch dark. I didn't want to stand in the dark on the summit and see nothing. Since the weather was ideal and not cold, I wouldn't mind waiting a little at the summit. But after a few minutes in line we both became impatient and restless again and so we set off on a second sprint to overtake a few snails again. Shortly afterwards we had arrived at the end of the steep stretch and de4 Weg meandered moderately increasing. Now mini peaks appeared again and again in the light and every time I wondered if this was the wrong or right summit. Once I was so convinced to see the summit in the distance that I showed it Chirring. He just nodded and went on. I don't know if he knew it couldn't be the summit. Since only very few headlamps z7 were visible before 7 s, it was also difficult to estimate for 7 s where it goes further up and where the route would be finished.
After what felt like 10 minutes we met a group of about 6 people who seemed to be waiting for something. I thought this was the wrong summit and that they were waiting there to climb the right summit. But beside it, I didn't see any elevation, as if I assumed I was wrong. Right next to this group, the route passed into a narrow traverse. Almost 20cm wide, this crosses a very steeply sloping snow wall. You could never see the end of the wall, but my feeling told me that it goes down quite far and steep. I set every step of my elephant shoes very carefully, here you definitely don't want to hang with the crampons, slip, stumble or do anything else stupid. How long the traverse is, I can't say anymore. JC says 15-20m, I meant it must be about 50m, because somewhere in the middle was an anchor point where you have to hang the safety carabiner. This anchor is carved in rock and chirring and I had to be here for a few minutes. I looked at the rock and knew immediately, no matter how far from the summit we are, I must have a piece of that rock. So I took my Ascender and hit the rocks like a wild one. Chirring turned around in amazement, but understood instantly. Shortly after arriving at Camp 4, I hit a rock next to the tent with my Ascender to get a piece of stone. There I didn't know yet if I would still have a chance above the camp. I try to take home a piece of stone from every mountain I climb, preferably from the summit...
So Chirring understood what I wanted to achieve and also took his Ascender to cut out a piece of rock. His project was quickly crowned with success and he put 2 small pieces of rock in my gloves.
I put them with a smile in a leg pocket with a zipper, ready to go further. But somehow the exhaust air was out of the climbers in front of us. They moved very sluggishly and when we arrived at the next bend, we also knew why: the summit was not 7m above us. Before us only approx. 6 people, who all looked up fascinated. I remember how different things went through my head: "Is this really the summit?" "Where is it going, or where are the people going in front of us?" "If this is the summit, they have to turn around, but no one has met us so far" "Is that a Nepal flag up there?" "How the hell do they come down the same rope as we come up? Behind us it is finally very steep and very low down"
And then, while waiting for someone to move at the top, suddenly realized. I am actually and truly at 8163 minus 7m altitude and about to stand on the summit of the eighth highest mountain. I had made it, was enjoying the whole ascent, not suffering for a second and would not be able to stand the last 7m either. I really did it. I, a normal, who just has a little bigger dreams than the others and is so stupid to pursue them. Everyone who knows me or has stood with me on a summit can guess what happened then. I stood there, waiting and howled snot and water on and into my oxygen mask. I didn't care how long they stood up there in their place, took pictures or repositioned themselves. I let my tears run free and tried to convince myself that it was all real. I'm honest, I didn't succeed, it just felt so unreal. I was so close to a peak of an 8000, without suffering and even crying worked without a breath. I tried to get myself together again, because from above came movement into the waiting. Only then did I see the second rope, which was stretched to the right of the one I was hanging on. It was the rope that leads away from the summit and someone was just trying to hang down. I stepped to the side and Chirring directed me up to him that we would be ready quickly when the place on the summit became available. The space up there is really very limited, maybe a square meter, including anchorage of the ropes and the summit flag. The climbers right in front of us were very cumbersome and cumbersome and pissed off because they could not position themselves as they wanted. Chirring also went to their balls because they were not prepared. I had my phone at hand in my suit and prepared all my photo utensils in Camp 4 in a bag for Chirring. When I was at the top, it went very fast. Within a few minutes I had my desired pictures in the box. It was important to me that Chirring also got good summit photos. So it was up to me to conduct him in such a way that he was satisfied with my work. We were lucky that we were more flexible and lively than the others, so we could make full use of the 15 minutes on the summit. Finally, we hung up the prayer flags that the llama had blessed on the Puja. Also the something I have done on every high peak so far. I enjoyed the time at the summit very much, only one thing did not come to. Train: enjoying the view.
Because we were simply too fast for the sun, it was still pitch dark. It took us 4.15 hours to get to the summit, so it wasn't even half past 5 in the morning. Not a single light could show us a detail of the landscape below us. So my gaze only briefly turned to the darkness behind the prayer flags and the Nepal flag, before I went downhill.
Tuesday, 24.September - the descent from the summit
Sophie Lavaud, the Swiss mountaineer who climbed the last of the 14 8000s last summer, has the same motto for every mountain: "on doit rétourner pour raconter l'histoire": you have to come back to tell the story. Another quote that I always carry in my heart when I am on the road within my project is the following: The summit is voluntary, the return is mandatory. This is to symbolize the fact that I was now on the summit of the Manaslu, but that all is worth nothing at all, if I do not put as much effort into the descent as in the ascent. At the summit it is only half-time, and you usually have the lighter part behind you and the heavier part in front of you. Fortunately, I'm stronger in the second half than in the first half. That is to say, I am so much better at going down than at going up. It feels like my batteries are fully charged on the summit. Nevertheless, I collect all my energy for a moment at the summit and focus it on the descent so that I can start it concentrated. At the Manaslu, I started by hanging my safety carabiner into the right rope and taking the first steps safely and firmly into the steep terrain. After about 4 steps, someone patted me on the shoulder and I saw a radiant Phunuru in my light cone. He congratulates me warmly with a hug and points to Dean, JC, Mingma and Ang Karma behind him. We all hug each other and congratulate each other briefly. We had enough time for longer celebrations later, now it was the turn of the safe descent. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the few seconds of joy together on the summit, because we had grown together like a family in the last few weeks. I was extremely happy for all those who had reached the summit and especially for Dean and JC whose dream of standing together on an 8000 has just come true.
The 7m with the second rope were quickly over and now followed the nightmare traverse that I had already described. Remember: a 20cm wide track with a fixed rope. Yes, exactly, a fixed rope. So there are both those climbers with the carabiner on the rope who want to go to the summit and those who want to descend from the summit again. There is actually no room for overtaking, no other way either. That means you go around the upstarts. In detail, this means: hang a carabiner, hug another mountaineer and hang the ascender behind him. Then release the safety carabiner in front of the other climber and go one step further. Since my Ascender band was a little too short, this way did not work for me. So I turned off my brain, and hugged each climber, holding on to the rope. Before each climber, I shouted at him that he should not move under any circumstances. Everyone obediently kept my instructions. Chirring followed me closely on the heels and held my security carabiner hanging with him. That didn't make me comfortable at all, because if he would slip, I would be at the mercy of the earth's force and would have no chance. Only now when writing I realize that it would have been exactly the opposite.. so he was convinced that I would not slip. I just focused on everything else: that I had a good grip, shouted at the climbers loudly enough and put my feet well. I think we were in the traverse for maybe 10 minutes and when we had overtaken the last climber, I couldn't stop otherwise and briefly to take a picture of the entire scenery (see above). After that, it went out of the traverse without oncoming traffic and back on the way in less dangerous terrain. Dozens of climbers came to meet us, some of them in a pretty tired state and very slow on the way. We had overtaken these for the most part in the ascent and I was horrified at the idea that in the worst case I would have had them all standing in front of me at the summit if we hadn't left early enough. That's when I was grateful for the schedule for the first time, and the disappointment that we were on the summit in the pitch darkness shrank a little. On the way to Camp 4, other climbers came to meet us. The few who were at the summit before us, we overtook pretty soon. Some sat completely exhausted next to the track and the guides tried to instill them a little tea from the thermos. Even from the ascenders we met again and again small heaps of misery or saw how the previously deposited soaker bottles were changed. All in all, more people came to meet us than I had expected and a few times I was glad that we only had to queue for about 15 minutes upstairs. The idea of having to wait in the traverse, or of having to wait so long until you freeze, did not please me at all. Shortly after 5h I saw a slight stripe on the horizon for the first time, a sign that the day seems to be finally dawning. That was the moment when I briefly thought that we were actually stupid, that we hadn't been a little slower. Because then we might still have had a view from the summit. But until it was bright enough, it took another half hour and if you calculate it logically, we would have been waiting somewhere for 1.5 hours. I don't think this is a situation we would have gotten out of without any problems. So I trotted on to Camp 4 and tried to save the wonderful view that was preparing for me more and more. I perceived hills and snow next to the route, which were hidden during the ascent. And then the cloud cover that spread out below us...
I didn't want to believe the feeling of being higher than anything else on the Aconcagua, but once again it was absolutely fantastic. Every few minutes I had to stop to capture what I saw with my cell phone. A meager attempt to capture something so great as an ever-ling memory. But Chirring was extremely patient and I wanted to take home as many impressions as possible. About two cozy hours after the departure on the summit we stood again in front of the tent in Camp 4. I was quite warm from the descent and I wanted to go on right away. But Chirring said that we would have to wait for the others. That's why I went to pee and went to the tent. I find it exciting that my body works perfectly while it has to call up the power and as soon as the effort is finished, it reacts again to needs. I had drunk exactly the 2dl of water during the whole summit tour in the one break and still never thirsty or urge to pee. As soon as I had lifted the backpack off my back, the bubble reported. After a few minutes in the tent, the hunger came, which I was able to satisfy with 2 chocolate bars and a few M&M's. Chirring showed up soon after with my two bottles, which he had carried in vain to the summit. We both had to laugh that he carried the weight unnecessarily, but he only meant “lucky summit bottle” with a huge smile. Already at the Ama he had carried my bottles almost up for the cat. This seems to be our ritual...
So I used the time I had to wait for the others to empty my thermos bottle and my Nalgene bottle also had to believe in it. I thought it wasn't bad to get the fluid balance back on track, because my goal for today was actually to go down to the base camp. I had already said that Phunuru during the rotation, because I know that after a night somewhere in a camp I would be much less motivated and focused to go further down the next day. At the Kilimanjaro I tried this for the first time and although I had not felt the feet at the end, let alone knew how to put them on properly, it was worth it in any case to go all the way down there.
Over time, it became uncomfortably warm in the tent, so I took off my down suit and tried to lay it out so that the inner lining of my sweat dried a little. I had already packed my sleeping bag and air mattress as a precaution, so that we could leave again right after the arrival of the others. Over time, however, it became quite cold, which is why I twisted under the sleeping bag of the others. Again and again I peeped outside to mock the others when they appeared above the hill. When I was sure, I jumped out of the tent and waved. Unfortunately, it turned out that I was wrong, as the group turned left towards Camp 3. After 1h 15 minutes they finally came in our direction. Slowly but steadily they approached the camp. I had enough time to put on the dry down suit again and finish packing my backpack so that nothing stood in the way of Dean and JC when they arrived. Finally we all came to congratulate each other in peace, hug each other, and let us live a little high. I took some videos and photos of JC and Dean, hoping they'll have some memories of how they felt when they arrived at Camp 4. They looked quite tired and broken and happily fell into the tent. Phunuru immediately hung them back on the oxygen mask so that they could recover to some extent. My expectation that we could leave as soon as the others arrived was bitterly disappointed. The Sherpas first had to take care of hot water and what to eat for Dean and JC and then discuss who would carry what and how much down the mountain. So I also enjoyed a bit of tea again and squeezed another chocolate bar and tried to practice patience. Finally, Chirring and I got the green light to leave at 9.15 a.m. and only a few minutes later I was ready. I would wear the oxygen mask until the bottle is empty, but I decided that there would be enough good things in Camp 3 at the latest. In addition, I promised Chirring before our departure in the base camp, or explained that I will carry all my materials myself on the descent. When he asked where my things were before the departure, he was still amazed when I pointed at my backpack. He shrugged briefly, turned around and started running. A few minutes later it began to wind and only a few minutes later we marched in dense snowdrifts after the tracks. I was glad that Chirring took the lead, which I saw almost nothing anymore. The tracks were gone within minutes and the only thing that kept us on track were the fixed ropes and the flags, which could be seen briefly on the horizon from time to time. The hardworking reader may still remember the blog entry about the way from Camp 3 to Camp 4. Steep was the decisive keyword. Now, in addition to steep, the keyword snowstorms is added. It was no joy to get down the steep slope in a reasonably controlled way.
Hundreds of times we slipped, or we had to balance ourselves because we unexpectedly landed in deep snow. I was a little upset that we had spent 3 whole hours in the most beautiful blue sky and sun in Camp 4 and now had to find our way down in this storm. But exciting is of no use, it only harms concentration. So I tried to blow away those negative thoughts with the wind and focus on making a safe step each. It only went well until we had to wait at an anchor for the first time. Of course, many climbers had descended directly from the summit without making a stop in Camp 4. This includes the tired, worn-out heaps that we had overtaken on the way to Camp 4. Unfortunately, they were now almost no longer able to hang their safety carabiner and on said anchor it would have been announced to hang up his abseiling device properly and abseiling. With the help of the guide, the hanging was possible, but the process of abseiling takes forever. We tried to remain calm and maintain a reasonably secure position. After about 15 minutes, said person had arrived at the next anchor and we could continue. With 2-3 quick steps next to the route we were able to overtake the Schleichis, but the joy was only of short duration, because a Schleichi apparently rarely comes alone on a 8000m. At the next anchor we faced an even bigger queue. We were too far back to realize what the problem was. I automatically concluded from the situation that there is probably a group on the ascent and since there is only one rope, the descents have to wait until the rope is free again, so everyone has arrived at the top of the rope. Remember the keyword steep, it takes forever for a group to lift up a rope to the end. But my theory faltered when the queue moved slowly and tentily, without any climbers coming to meet us. When it was our turn to abseil, we saw what the problem was: an incompetent climber who couldn't do anything herself. On both wrists there were additionally gloves that interfered with hanging up, the oxygen mask diagonally in the face and the consequence of it: a tarnished ski goggles. So the poor had the worst conditions to descend quickly, even if they would have had the ability to do so. Unfortunately, that was not the case. Their guide was accordingly indignant and impatient and shoots them together every 2 minutes. Rather unproductive in this situation but somehow understandable. I think your guide underestimated the terrain with four rope lengths that you can't overtake, or only at the greatest risk. Many Sherpas who were traveling alone took the risk. I preferred the tough waiting to the risk, even if it was almost unbearable. The happiness of all of us was that not another group wanted to climb in the same place. So the lady stopped us unnecessarily, but the safety was at least guaranteed for Chirring and me at all times. At the last anchor we were fortunately able to overtake the unequal duo and move on again at our pace. Further down then suddenly more and more climbers came to meet us, almost a small caravan. Apparently it had been said 2 days ago in the base camp that today would be the last reasonably good summit day and so apparently all climbers who remained in the base camp now moved past us in direction of Camp 4.
The dodging on the single fixed rope at times resembled a small ballet: hang, unhook, hang at chirring, change the side of the rope, back again, touch along the rope with your hands, or with eye contact find out if the oncoming traffic briefly clicks, or I should do that. Also on this route I did not miss the opportunity to make a photo stop from time to time, as I do not plan to return to the Manaslu, as beautiful as it is to climb. Apart from the large oncoming traffic, we were spared from further incompetent or tired descents and soon arrived at the last abseiling point just before Camp 3. Here the fix team had chosen a very rough rope, which is no problem during the ascent. But if you want to abseil with the abseiling device, it has quite a lot of friction. If there is a rather small girl hanging on it, nothing happens. Luckily I had a bit of weight in my backpack and with hanging and choking and pulling and bumping I somehow made it to the end of this rope length. This led me to once again standing in my down suit in sweat and wondering when it would get really cold on this expedition. I felt like I had sweated more than frozen in the last few weeks. Chirring brought me a cup of tea on arrival and let me know that Phunuru said we should stay in Camp 3 unless there were no more free tents. Camp 3 was quite busy, it reminded me more of a bee house than a mountain camp. The decision to go down one more camp further was not difficult for us. But he first had to find our rice bag, in which we had deposited things that we would no longer need above camp 3. On my side it was, for example, a thermal shirt or the ebook reader, the second Nalgene bottle, the high touring pants or spare socks. Since I had packed a little strangely in Camp 4, I couldn't pack any of my things in my backpack, except the water bottle. Fortunately, Chirring only had to pack my crime stuff and was able to put the rest of the others back and deposit them. Each Sherpa only wears common appliances plus the things of the assigned customers. We originally wanted to change our down suit into the normal climbing gear in Camp 3. But since there was no tent free and the next camp was nearby, we did without it. I now also provided my oxygen mask in the backpack and put the juice off the bottle. Chirring was not so enthusiastic, but let me go. I wanted to at least cope with the way from Camp 3 to 2 without oxygen, after I had to use it on the ascent. The good thing about this section of the road is that it is short and moderately steep. Only two steep walls and a few moderate hills separated us from the next camp. My legs still worked super reliably and I didn't feel much fatigue in them. My arms, on the other hand, felt a little slower than 12 hours ago. But I had spent numerous hours in the fitness center especially for this, so I knew that my arms would not let me down in the near future. Shortly after 12h we finally arrived at Camp 2. I was once again completely sweaty, even though I had opened all the ventilation zippers of my suit in Camp 3. Chirring probably felt the same way, but he didn't say anything about it. As soon as I arrived, he gave me a tent and told me to set up. When I asked if we couldn't go any further, he said no, we had to wait for the others. I knew it didn't bring anything to discuss, but I asked again to be on the safe side. The answer remained the same. And because I absolutely had to pee - reliable system, always nice on arrival at the warehouse - I let the answer alone.
How good the shetpas from IMG are can be counted from numerous examples. One of them is simple, always after arriving in a warehouse the first concern is that we customers have something to drink, so they go straight to the kitchen tent and get you a cup of hot tea, and they also take all the empty bottles right after to fill them with hot water. This happens automatically, no matter what camp. In the base warehouse, 2 large thermos carafes are ready for 24 hours, so that you can fill your bottles yourself.
I didn't quite give up my desire to go straight down to the base camp, but first took care of another problem: I took off my sweaty down suit and tried to put it back in the tent to dry it. In the meantime, the sun came out again, which warmed the tent pleasantly inside. I also changed the clothes under the down suit and put on my high mountain pants plus the thermos shirt that I had stored in Camp 3. I hung the wet clothes indiscriminately in the tent, hoping that they would dry during the wait. I had no idea how long I would have to wait, but tried to make it as comfortable as possible in the tent without unpacking my mattress or sleeping bag. I still had a tiny glimmer of hope that I would be allowed to continue. Chirring soon came over and asked if I wanted more tea or something to eat. I had already been looking forward to a portion of popcorn, my traditional food, when I arrive at the base camp. Since I was pretty likely stuck here in Camp 2 for today, I asked Chirring for a portion of popcorn. He stintered briefly, shrugged his shoulder and disappeared in the direction of the kitchen tent. 2 minutes later the cook came out and came to me to ask if I really wanted popcorn. I said yes to your question and added that I would be satisfied with a small bowl. He looked puzzled, but 10 minutes later actually came back with a bowl of wonderful popcorn. Half an hour later he even stood in front of my tent with supplies. This sweetened my waiting time considerably and so I enjoyed popcorn with hot tea on almost 6000m and continued reading on my ebook in my novel.
Tuesday, 24.September - camp 2 to Basecamp
I don't know how much time had passed, in any case Chirring suddenly stood in front of my Tent to tell me that he had sparked with Phunuru. We would have to wait for them in Camp 2, as there would still be a lot of discussion about the material and the carrying down of the loads. After that, however, I may continue to descend with him. I was very happy and extremely happy that I had not yet unpacked my backpack. Because I was about to surrender to fate and spread out in the tent. It was already 15h and my hope for the onward journey was pretty much at zero. Now I knew I had to stay awake and ordered another black tea. The others had meanwhile arrived at Camp 3, would also take a tea break and then come to us. It took another more than an hour for JC to arrive at the camp, quite tired and at the end. Dean slowly followed on the horizon. He has had massive problems with his Achilles tendon for a few months and the mountain run is massively on his strength. He is in pain with every step and he deserves my absolute respect that he managed to be in Camp 2 so quickly in this state! When he arrived, we helped him remove the crampons and transported him and JC to their tent as soon as possible. It took only a few minutes for them to have a hot tea in their hands. They wouldn't take a single step today and the goal was just to keep the two of them awake, they had eaten a noodle soup.
For me it meant repacking my backpack so that there is even more material in it, eating a few M&M's and a bar again and having my water bottle refilled. I managed to put all my clothes in the backpack. So the only thing that had to be carried down by the Sherpas was my down suit, an empty Nalgene bottle and the thermos bottle. When the backpack was packed and I assembled my crampons, Phunuru told me that Mingma would also go with Chirring and me in the direction of Basecamp. That was no problem for me. I would have descended alone, but I knew that no one would allow me to. At shortly after 4:30 p.m. everyone was ready to go. My down suit could not fit in any backpack, but that was no problem for me. He would get to the base camp the next day with the rest, and certainly not stay in the camp. Since we were on the road rather late, we expected that we would get through the ice fall well. I expected approx. 5 hours to the base camp, so that we would arrive in the dark. That was no problem for me, I would have hiked even longer if it had to be. I just feel 100% safe again in the base camp and that's why in my head the mountain is only successfully climbed when I'm back with both feet in the base camp.
Before that, I don't allow myself a big celebration and the concentration remains high. I also longed to send my friends and family the long-awaited message that I am doing well and I am back safe and safe. Until now I have not had reception, so they have all been in the dark since Saturday. I also didn't know if IMG had already updated its blog or not. I never know who can deal better with uncertainty. Those who sit at home and have no idea where I am or how I am doing. Or me, who knows that everything is good and absolutely wants to communicate it as soon as possible. It's not about telling them that I was at the summit, but that I'm back safely. Because as already written several times: what good is the summit if you don't come back? For me, it counts for nothing.
When we started running, we were able to pick up a good pace, because the entrance to the ice fall is not yet too steep. The first abseiling point came soon and despite heavy backpack I mastered it without problems. After hanging on the anchor you get around a corner and there I already saw a few Sherpas standing. This in itself is not a concern. As we got closer, Mingma and Chirring asked what was going on. After a short conversation it was clear that a Westerner simply needed a little longer and you don't want to overtake him on the parallel hanging rope, there. I don't know how he reacts. He was on the road with his climbing partner who supported him. Since we knew that everyone present would arrive fairly quickly at the lower end of the rope as soon as the rope was free, we took the situation calmly. I decided to sit down despite my backpack, or rather to lie on the backpack, like a beetle on my back. That was not such a good idea, because since the descent from Camp 4 I was plagued by a slight dry cough. The occupied situation favored this. So I tried to activate my abs and pull myself up again. At that moment, a snowball hit me in the back. Confused, I tried to find out who was behind me, who I knew. And stand there, a radiant Phunuru is standing in front of me. He had decided to leave too, about an hour after us, to catch up with us at Camp 1. He was as surprised as we were that he could catch up with us before the second steep wall. The westerner in the wall was probably slower than we expected. As soon as his companion's rope was free, Chirring called me to him and helped me hang it up so that everything goes a little faster. The goal was that I could overtake the 2 at the bottom so that we wouldn't have to wait so long for the third steep wall again. So I abseiled as quickly as possible. With the heavy backpack in the vertical a very simple undertaking. You just had to make sure you brake early enough, especially if you have rather slippery gloves, like me. So I actually managed to get at anchor in front of the duo and have a little small talk with the two. It turned out that one of the two is Andrej, who we had already met on the rotation in Camp 1. The other turned out to be his customer, who was quite battered. They had left directly from Camp 3 to the summit at 5.30 p.m. the day before and had been on the road ever since. In the meantime, for almost 24 hours, without sleep or a long rest break. They kindly gave me the way and since I knew that Chirring and Mingma were faster than me, I went straight on. After about 50m I came around a corner and saw something unexpected: a huge snake that appeared out of nowhere. About 30 people stood their legs in their stomachs and some looked pretty frozen. Since there is one way in the ice fall, and you can't make a detour, I had no choice but to just line up as well. A few minutes later, Chirring stood next to me and tried to figure out what was going on. I thought there was probably a small problem that they had solved a long time ago and we only had to wait a few minutes before we could continue. Meanwhile, all the Sherpas were behind me, who gave me the way during the first waiting time, including Phunuru. All the Sherpas were arguing around, we Westerners just stood there quietly and tried to keep ourselves warm. I put on my down jacket again, which I had stowed in my backpack in Camp 2. I still had warm fingers and I wanted to leave that as long as possible. Because abseiling with cold fingers in a vertical does not necessarily have to be.
I still took the situation with humor, after all, the problem could not last that long. It was only when a Russian behind me shouted a little impatiently forward that no one had been moving for 15 minutes and what the problem was, I realized that he was right. We had been standing there for about 20 minutes and no one had moved. The Russian shouted again, "This will take forever. If everyone only has 5 minutes to seiling, how long do you think we'll be standing here?” And he was right! I started counting the people in front of me, but stopped after 20, because 20x5 would already be 100 minutes.... I was feverishly thinking about what other options we had. I ruled out climbing back to camp 2. Because the 2 verticals that we had already abseiled were not exactly in good condition to climb them and at least my backpack was full of weight up to the top. I thought that maybe one of the Sherpas had a rope with him that could be attached as a detour. But I saw no rope far and wide. I tried to remember where we stand in the route and I realized that we have to be above the section where the ladder is attached. I wondered if maybe the Serac had collapsed, or the ladder would have to be extended. Or that the ice bridge is no longer there, through which you can reach the ladder. Maybe je,and would be climbing up, but since there were 2 ropes, this possibility was rather unrealistic for me. Unfortunately, we couldn't see anything and I couldn't find out if Chirring knew the answer, because he just shook his head. So I took out my phone and took some pictures of the beautiful view. The mountains lay beautifully in the twilight and somehow shone in unusual color and sharpness. From Jux I turned off the flight mode on my phone to see if I might have reception in the middle of the ice fall. You should have seen my face when messages suddenly popped up... in every camp I had looked for reception and could not find it. And now here, with the view of the mountains and the less great view of having to wait over an hour, I suddenly had the opportunity to tell my loved ones that I was on my way to the base camp. I even managed to send a photo of the traffic jam to the family chat (see photo above) and upload a photo to my status that I didn't have to write thousands of individual messages to calm everyone down. My sister happened to be online and was able to update me immediately about the results of the puzzle world championship. Since I wanted to save the battery, I turned on the airplane mode again after about 20 minutes. You never know how fast you'll get ahead. I already saw myself spending the night in Camp 1 because we have to spend hours here. In this cell phone time, nothing had happened in terms of movement. The only thing was that a Sherpa pushed himself up to the snake's head to somehow speed the whole thing up. I would never have thought it possible, but it was actually useful. After a short time, the first person hung himself in the rope and disappeared into the depths. Of course, it took an infinitely long time for the second person to do the whole thing, but so slowly a little slow momentum came into the traffic jam. I knew there were two ropes to get down: a vertical, almost overhanging direjte, which we had left to the Sherpas during the rotation. And the indirect over the leaning Serac with 2 anchorages, where you have to hang yourself. Especially the second change was shit, because you actually hang with the entire weight in the abseilget and only have gsnz small edges to stand for the feet. After hanging you have to climb down about 50cm, so that you can position your hands well again for the braking. Definitely not my favorite part of the route.
For us it took another almost 45 minutes until it was finally our turn. During this time we also came up with what the problem was. You may remember the unequal duo that had already made our lives difficult on the way to Camp 3. The unyied lady with the impatient Sherpa? Well, this duo hadn't taken a break in Camp 3 and obviously none in Camp 2 either. Exactly these 2 were stuck in this part of the route for over half an hour. I can't imagine what the Sherpa was thinking. This lady belonged with oxygen in a sleeping bag in camp 3 or 2 so she could rest. I saw them standing under the steep wall, or rather swaying. She was completely disoriented and looked around like a curious child seeing a glacier for the first time. In the meantime, she no longer wore a backpack and the gloves that had dangling on her wrists the previous hours had also disappeared... I saw the good in the whole situation. I was standing so far back in the line that the two had caused that I would surely still be standing there if they were far away in Camp 1...
Chirring had proceeded to inspect the route and when it was my turn, the Sherpa asked me if I was traveling alone or with a guide. I said I was on the road with Chirring. Mingma and Phunuru were placed at least 10 people further back in the traffic jam. So the dear coordinator directed me to the same rope as Chirring, which unfortunately turned out to be an indirect line. The upper part was no problem. But in the meantime, the hanging on the two lower anchors was not entirely unproblematic. In addition, there was a small Sherpa under me, whose backpack was so heavy that it automatically pulled him into the depths. So he had no chance to hang out his abseilger red, because he could hang it up. He tried everything, really everything. I felt it because I was hanging in the same rope and being thrown back and forth in his efforts. Not so cool when you have ice-cold hands, fear of heights and for hours a heavy backpack on your back and dangle over a Serac, which has bent even more. Not to mention the crevass that lurked underneath. I really tried to keep a cool head, but that was a bit too much of a good thing. When I notice that I'm in a panic right now, I start to breathe in and out deeply and run. Probably like every pregnant woman gets it sharpened in the birth preparation course. So I'm hanging on the pendulum and trying to focus on breathing. In the meantime, apparently some people who had stood above me had managed to descend on the direct rope. Because when I tried to focus on something, I saw Phunuru standing at the bottom of that other rope. He saw the misery of the Sherpa on my rope and tried to help him. Somehow he managed to keep a reasonably secure stand and unhang his abseiling. Less than 30 seconds later he was down and it was finally my turn to overcome this anchor. I also needed at least 5 minutes in which I fought not only with the rope, but also against the tears. I was afraid of falling and that stressed me - as always on a vertical wall - extremely. From above I got a little encouragement from a nice Sherpa and also Chirring, even further up, tried to calm me down. So the rehanging finally worked for me and I was able to abseil the last 3m. But my legs were shaking quite a bit in the meantime, the worst conditions for the now following ladder. This is now at an angle of about 50 degrees and only on a rung, because the snow bridge had lowered further. I hung up my safety carabiner as quickly as possible and tried to climb this thing as controlled as possible, after all there are only about 20 rungs of second short knotted aluminum ladders. I spoke loudly at every step to me: you can do that, you can do that, you can do that. Once at the top, I quickly hung up and then I took 5 minutes of breathing. I was completely out of breath and couldn't control it for a few minutes. What brought me to my senses again was the realization that it was now more dark than light. Actually, it's been a long time to find the headlamp out of my backpack. But now I didn't want to be reasonable anymore, but just get out of this stupid ice trap as quickly as possible. So I continued walking without waiting for Chirring. The route was still very clearly recognizable and there were ropes everywhere. But after another 10 minutes I had to realize that I could not go on for long without light without stepping into a hole or missing the rope when hanging over. Fortunately, I saw two climbers sitting about 100m further, because I didn't want to take my backpack off my back to take out the headlamp, if not absolutely necessary. The two climbers were none other than Andrej and his customer, who looked even lousier than 2 hours before when standing. Nevertheless, they helped me with the headlamp and whorebd also closed Chirring to us. I could now also hand him the headlamp from the backpack, so that none of us had to take out his backpack. We overtook Andrej and Co and stood a short time later at the last technical point in the glacier. A 5m wall, which you can easily master the abseiling blush if you use the Sherpa technique: both hands on the rope and then backwards step by step down the wall. The last time I bundled my concentration and so I mastered this last hurdle in the dark without any problems. The rest to Camp 1 is walking over some small hills, always nice along the rope and took maybe another 10 minutes.
I was really happy when we finally arrived at the camp, where Phunuru was already waiting for us with a grin. Next to him stood still grinning Devras, our tent-Sherpa, who waved with cola and food. I had a deja-vu, because exactly this scene was already taking place at the Ama. There you walk unsuspectingly into Camp 1 and there is a radiant Devras with food that he wants to give you as a reward. As with the Ama, he unfortunately had the wrong thing with him: a portion of popcorn, chocolate or an iced tea were perfect, his cola and sandwiches unfortunately not. But he wasn't offended when I took a hot cup of tea instead. I think the Sherpas here are slowly getting to know me and hopefully they won't take it too bad for me.
Meanwhile, Phunuru told me that Mingma and Chirring will stay in Camp 1 because they have to go back up to Camp 2 the next day to carry down the last materials, the goal was to have everything material in the base camp before the big storm that would soon come to complete the expedition. But Phunuru would continue with me to the base camp, accompanied by Devras, who takes over the load of Mingma and Chirrin ("only" 6 empty oxygen cylinders...). Phunuru wanted to start organizing the permits for the helicopter flights in the BC so that we could fly back to Kathmandu as soon as possible.
At about 7 p.m. we started from Camp 1. The path was also clearly marked and we started in the bristle Sherpa pace. I could easily keep up with this pace even after the long day and followed Phunuru's every step towards the glacier edge. Now we had no more oncoming traffic or traffic jams and so we made very good progress. It only took us just under 50 minutes - meanwhile through snowstorms - to the Crampon point, where I could finally change back into my small, unclumsy hiking boots and get rid of the crampons. Because my backpack was already full, I simply strapped my mountain boots and crampons on it, although the weight ratio was anything but optimal. But there was only an hour of hiking trail ahead of us and I managed to do that somehow. We had been wsrm for a long time, but I was too lazy to take off my down jacket. In addition, the snowstorm had turned into rain and the jacket was already wet anyway. Why take them off and also get a wet sweater? I'd rather soak my clothes with sweat from the inside.. but I didn't care, I really just wanted to go to the base camp, take off my shoes and have a drink and eat my popcorn. Devras had only stopped briefly at Crampon point and was far ahead of us, because he had to take care of our dinner. I hoped we would remember that I didn't want anything else but popcorn. So Phunuru and kch trudled through the rain, embarrassingly paying attention that no dispute happened to us so shortly before the finish line. We mastered the short climbing passage at the Siel just as confidently as the steep parts of the path short on the Basecamp. The view was beautiful, the whole camp brightly lit and of course we captured that again photographically. Shortly after 9 p.m. it was finally time, about 17 hours after I stood on the summit of the Manaslu, I took my last steps and ran into the base camp. The entire kitchen crew was already waiting for us and congratulated us with handshakes and hugs. I finally felt safe, but I knew I couldn't sit down yet. As with the Ama, it was first my concern to pass by the Pujaplatz and thank you for the safe passage for which we had requested during the Puja. The 2 minutes had to be easy, because I was really grateful that I was back so healthy. After that I went to the tent, where I could finally get rid of my backpack and sit down. Oh, how happy I was and the look in Phunuru's face told me that he was exactly the same.
The poopcorn was not long in coming and there was a sprite that Phunuru and I shared. He enjoyed a noodle soup and then there was an hour of rest, since we were both on the phone. I was able to update the family briefly, tried to answer a few messages from friends, which I succeeded rather badly than well. I was too overwhelmed and didn't know how to put my thoughts into words. So I let the cell phone be cell phone and took care of my backpack. Phunuru didn't want to believe me that I had carried my oxygen tank and all the rest myself. He said that they had been looking for a bottle in Camp 2 because one was missing. I had already told them there that I had the flat in my backpack, but obviously no one believed me. When I then pulled the bottle out of the backpack in front of Phunuru's eyes, he was quite baffled. His comment: "how can such a little girl be so strong?" I have no answer to that, I think I'm just happy with my legs.
Shortly before going to bed, I had to ask Phunuru the question of all questions, namely whether he thought I was ready for Everest. His answer was short but exactly what I wanted to hear: 100%!
That was my keyword to be even happier, but I also slowly noticed the fatigue. We decided to run the stove in the tent through the night and hang all our wet things in the tent so that they could dry. Then I took my headlamp and went to my tent, which I had only left 3 days ago, to go on this summit tour.
I found my tent exactly as I had left it: a loop at the top and two stones in front of the opening flap so that no water would run in if it rained.
In the tent, I quickly put on my thermos, which I use as pajamas, slipped into my sleeping bag and fell asleep quite quickly.
Wednesday, 25.September - the day after
I slept splendidly that night, without waking up once in between. This is probably no wonder, considering that I had to be ready at midnight to hike at 8000m. Nevertheless, I did not feel excessively exhausted or drained. The next morning icv woke up from Phunuru, who was on the phone or dunked with someone. It was half past seven in the morning and when I unswole in the sleeping bag, I felt both my shoulder muscles and my thigh muscles. After all, I had run 700m up and 3300m down the day before, it would be strange if I didn't notice it the next day.
I lay down a little longer and tried to understand what I had done in the first place. I was standing yesterday on the summit of the Manaslu at 8163m and had enjoyed every step of it! How crazy is that please??? I even had to say it out loud, but somehow it doesn't quite penetrate my horn yet. I looked at my summit pictures, but that didn't help me either. This state continues until now, 4 days later. I'm curious how long it will take until the whole thing is stored in my head. Since we usually had breakfast at 8am, I peeled myself out of my sleeping bag shortly before and slipped back into my climbing clothes. I wanted to shower after breakfast and not get dirty the fresh things I had saved for this occasion. Phunuru was not in our tent, but in the cafe next door, with a grin on his face and a large chocolate donut in his hand. We congratulated each other again on our success and repeated this with the other climbers present. Then I went to our tent to get some tea. I had forgotten that the stove was running all night, so the heat almost drove me out of the tent again. In the tent it looked fun: our stuff scattered everywhere and quite chaotic. I gathered my seven things that were very dry and stuffed them back into the backpack. So we had at least zj 2. Place to have breakfast. Devras brought me a toas with some fruit, as I had told him the night before. I didn't want her to cook me extra, although I wasn't forced to eat much anymore. I enjoyed my toast with something like Nutella and started a second, rather unsuccessful attempt to answer messages from friends and family. I hope no one is angry with me for the short answers. I think my brain really needs a lot of time to realize the whole thing. I also tried to talk to Raphael on the phone, but the wifi was so bad that I had to reconnect every 3 minutes. So I soon left the phone and enjoyed the atmosphere of the base camp a little. Soon my shower was ready and I packed my last fresh clothes, which I had painstakingly worn on the sunny rest day a few days ago. I took my time to shower, although the air was colder than expected. The hair was washed as well as possible. After that I packed myself into the fresh clothes, slipped back into the down and went back to the food tent, where the oven was still running. There I waited until mekne Hasre dried jnd played a little on the cell phone. The others had already arrived from Camp 2 to Camp 1, apparently without a big traffic jam. Devras had, like the day before, walked back up to Camp 1 to welcome JC and Dean with treats. They were delighted with the spring rollers and the sprite and enjoyed a well-deserved break in Camp 1. Together with the entire Sherpa troop they then made their way to the last part of the summit storm in the direction of Basecamp.
Since we wanted lunch together (JC had wanted hamburgers with fries), Phunuru and I waited with the food until about 13h when JC first came in. He had walked from the Crampon point at his pace and we could finally be really happy about our performance. Of course, the cold beer was already ready for him and soon after arrival he sat in his chair with a huge grin and enjoyed his summit beer. A little while an hour later we also saw Dean fighting down on the last stretch of the way and closed him in our arms a few minutes later. Finally, it is 100% certain that we will all be back in good health, so this expedition is a complete success.
Lunch was served minutes later and according to JC this was the best burger he has ever eaten. You can see, we're all on quite a high, but in my opinion absolutely deserved!
In the afternoon we exchanged photos, JC and Dean also enjoyed the warm shower and I tried to read a little and pack the duffle bags. Since the bad weather will take place from tomorrow afternoon, our goal is to descend to Samagaon the next day and hopefully fly out before the storm.
Phunuru had already told me in the morning that there was a small catch. In Samsgaon, the locals are currently on strike because of the helicopter flight permits. While these are lying around for a few minutes at the ministry for us Westerners and are approved, it takes several days for the locals. In recent months, two people from Samagaon have apparently died because they were too sick, and the recovery time was shorter than the waiting time: they don't want to put up with this anymore. That's why she disfigured the helipad with wood and stones and filed an application with the government. Samsgaon is in the restricted zone, which is why the approval procedure is more complicated. They want Samagaon to no longer belong to this zone, so that it is safer for the locals to react faster in the event of illness. This strike has been going on for 3 days, which is why climbers who were on the summit before us and had descended to Samagaon are still stuck there. By the way, the approval procedure does not count for rescue flights, as Tim, for example, used it.
To end the strike, a meeting had been set up for tomorrow morning. Wog just hoped that they would find an agreement and we could go out tomorrow afternoon. That's why this afternoon was once again dedicated to enjoying the base camp, as we would definitely leave tomorrow. In the evening there were again hot pans with egg and pasta and fries to celebrate the success, which we all enjoyed. For dessert, we received our summit cake from the kitchen crew, which we ate together with everyone. Of course we took group photos to celebrate everyone's performance. This includes both the Sherpas and our cooks, because only in the interaction of all can such an expedition be successful. There was beer, wine, cola and vodka, everyone got what he wanted. It was a wonderfully exuberant atmosphere, for me a perfect end to the three weeks of Basecamp life. Of course, they were allowed to
Such an evening also the words of thanks are not missing. The three of us are perfectly aware that without this fantastic group we would not have had a chance at the summit. The Sherpas Chirring, AngKarma, Mingma together with Phunuru have tirelessly worked for us to make the summit possible for us. Devras, Tendi and their boys, in turn, threw the kitchen and spoiled us with so many culinary highlights. When I wasn't fit, they always brought me exactly what I could eat. The many plates of rice were finally worth it.
At half past nine, Dean and I were tired and went to the tent. The path is short, but that he has pain in his foot was obvious. I hoped that the bed rest would also do good for his feet, because the descent to Samagaon was not entirely without: 1000hm and often quite steep and slippery terrain
I immediately slipped into the sleeping bag and once again I soon fell asleep to dream of Kathmandu.
Thursday, 26.September - Basecamp to Samagaon
On Thursday, 26. September was the day we had to say goodbye to the base camp. We started the day once again with breakfast at 8am. I dispensed with large Plimborium and ate again a toast with nutella-like spread. The others enjoyed the variant with pancakes and shrimps to strengthen themselves for the descent. After that we had enough time to pack our two duffles. We should again distinguish between a climbing and a trekking bag. In the climbing duffle should all the material that we no longer need until Kathmandu. So the dirty laundry, climbing shoes, air mattress, etc. in the trekking bag came the rest, especially things that we would still need in Samagaon, such as necessaire, sleeping bag or clothes.
After that we prepared them in front of the tent and met in the tent. In the backpack was only the most necessary: something to drink and rain clothes in case the rain would set in. In addition, 2-3 umbrellas were ready for us.
We ate one last lunch together: sandwich and fries, whereby I dispensed with the sandwich. After a last farewell with the kitchen crew we got on our socks in the direction of Samagaon. One last time I went to Pujaplatz to say thank you and say goodbye. One last look up into the clouds towards the summit. I was allowed to do the descent today at my pace, coincidentally that was pretty much the same as that of Mingma, so we were on the road together. The path was steep and of course it started to rain about 10 minutes before our departure. So we all went off with our rain jackets. These give nice and warm and so I enjoyed a sauna one last time while walking. The rain made the path a little more slippery, which is why we had to be careful. We succeeded without any problems and already 45 minutes later we took a break in a "teahouse"
On the way, about halfway up the steep slope. Teahouse is therefore in quotation marks and closing marks, because it is more of a tent. So a wall that was piled up from the stones lying around, then a wooden stick that was placed on two other wooden rods and alw roof gable functions. On the other side another, much deeper stone wall. And above it 2-3 layers of plastic tarpaulin. At the front part, a small entrance was indicated with stones and that's it. So I wouldn't call the Gsnze a house. Inside, benches are improvised with stone slabs in front of the walls and at the back end there is a small sheet metal stove, in which the fire burns and on which a pan with water boils. The tent is run by two ladies who persevere each year during the 6-8 week season to serve Westerners and Sherpas equally. You could even eat Momo's here if you had a strong stomach. Here we waited for the rest of our group and enjoyed the view. The rain had stopped again and the cloud cover had lifted a little. So we saw down the valley, Lake Brendra from our acclimatization tour at the beginning of the expedition, or the village of Samagaon with the monastery. Just before Phunuru came around your corner, three ladies approached from below and it turned out that one of them was the owner of the teahouse in Samso, where we had spent the night during the acclimatization. When Phunuru discovered her, there was no stopping and a real, long break with hot tea was the order of the tent house. We sat there for about half an hour and listened to the incomprehensible Nepalian chatter. Dean gave up the break because of his feet. The continuation seemed more sensible, since he had found a good rhythm. During the break it started to rain again, so that afterwards we came around in the rain again. But as soon as he began, so quickly he stopped again. I was also able to walk the second part at my own pace, but this time I was alone, as Mingma stayed in the middle of the Sherpas. The seteil slope soon passed into the forest, where the path became a little flatter. At some point, lovingly designed stairs began, which were all knocked out of the surrounding stones by hand by the locals. This is an immense work and makes walking very pleasant. The steps are almost too flat for going down, but I can remember that the steps made the ascent much easier for me.
I think, all in all, about 1km of steps and 500m straight surfaces are designed like this. The road builders sleep at the bottom in tents, or under slabs, which they have placed over a stone wall. A thing of impossibility in Europe. But always exciting to see how simple conditions the locals can and want to conjure up so much.
Now the path leads through bushes along the river to Samagaon. On the way I met locals from time to time, especially the guys wanted to exchange 2-3 words with me. Funny how differently they behave when you are traveling alone, compared to the group. No one had ever spoken to me in the group. I still felt safe because I was close to the village and knew the Sherpas behind me. The moment when I saw the main street, or rather the main path of Samagaon in front of me, was indescribable. I was now a big step closer to civilization, would again have walls - so real, not just tent walls - around me and a real roof. Be able to use a Western toilet and sleep on a proper bed. This is still in the sleeping bag, but still a small improvement. As if on command it started to rain again and I quickly went to zim Hotel Norling, where we will spend the night. It was only 5 minutes away, which is why the rain didn't bother me so much anymore. In front of the hotel I happened to meet Asha and Andrew from the 14Peaks, respectively SevenSummit team. We met at the base camp and they had already descended the day before, in the hope that they could fly to Kathmandu today. The strike prevented this and now they have been stuck in the Sama for 24 hours. They would have liked to go back up to the base camp if they could have done it. The food and the company are much better. They had made friends with other climbers, all of whom are still in the base camp, so I can understand them well. And that the food in the BC was fantastic, I don't have to explain to anyone anymore, don't I?! They went back to the neighbor's teahouse while I made myself comfortable in the Norling's dining room and waited for the others. After about an hour, JC came in quite wet. Since I arrived, the rain had intensified and he was glad that he was finally in the Ttockenen. It was no different way for the rest that followed shortly thereafter. We first gathered in the dining room and drank something hot. After that we ordered fries to have an afternoon snack after the hike. But first came a plate of wild potatoes. This is nothing more than boiled potato halves. All you had to do was soil these, dip them in hot sauce, or salt them and then eat them. I held back, because in 3 hours dinner was already waiting for us again. The others, including Sherpas, enjoyed the snack very much. They had to get our trekking bags from the helipad afterwards. In the meantime, 2-3 transport flights were obviously made, including our duffles. They left you climbing bags on the helipad under the blache. Unfortunately, a member of Seven Summit also had the same bag as me, so the poor guys caught the wrong bag. So they had to go back to you for 10' in the pouring rain to get the bag. I didn't blame them at all and just sat longer in the dining room, while Dean and JC could already get in the room. There is not much to do for one night anyway: unpack the sleeping bag, take out the toiletry bag and possibly a pair of warm socks or the ebook reader.
After 20 minutes everything was ready for the night and I sat down again in the dining area. We had expected more people, because it was said in the base camp that a lot of westerners were waiting for the helicopter flight in Sama. But obviously it wasn't that bad. We definitely had plenty of space and enjoyed sitting on the soft benches in the hotel's sunroom. For dinner I ordered fries again, because they were very crispy and fine here. Dean and JC had the same opinion, because there was also a portion on their plate. But they complemented the whole thing with spring rolls. The Sherpas traditionally ate a Dahl Baht. I don't know if they can't order anything else.
This dinner was the last meal together, because the boys would leave for Kathmandu the next day. We made fun together again, group photos, congratulated each other, pushed each other sn and we customers also handed over the summit bonus. New this is determined by IMG and was here at the Manaslu 1500$. I think it's good that the amount is fixed, because how are you supposed to convert such a performance, which the guys have shown in the last 3 weeks, into a value? That's impossible for me. Without them we are nothing on these mountains and if we make it to the summit, they are nothing and we are everything. So how can you thank in the form of a sum of money for this? If you wanted, you could also put something on this amount. We had already done this the day before and handed it over to Phunuru. Because here it is important for Phunuru that the addition is fairly divided by everyone, so that everyone receives the same amount at the end. I also find this very transparent and I can only support it. After dinner, I went to bed with a grateful smile, because I hoped that we could fly out tomorrow.
Saturday, 28.September - Samagaon in the rain
When I went to bed yesterday, it had been raining continuously since my arrival of the descent and this remained so all night. So when I woke up early on Friday, the rain was still crashing incessantly on the roof. I was glad that we were no longer in the tent in the base camp, because there the way to the tent would have been much longer, ergo much weter.
As always in the morning, I enjoyed my sleeping bag and its warmth a little longer until I got up. Arrived in the dining room, the mood was so moderate. The weather forecast for the next few days did not predict air weather. Yes exactly, the next few days, not the next few hours. I saw my hot shower and the bed without a sleeping bag moving far away. In my imagination, we would have flown to Kathmandu today, where I would have postponed my return flight to Saturday and I would have been with my loved ones again on Sunday morning...
I only guessed how far away from reality my idea is: the locals' strike is not over yet. While they have received approval for some of their demands, they are not yet satisfied. The weather forecast predicts continuous rain until Sunday morning with snow at higher altitudes, such as the Basecamp. Phunuru therefore already prepared us that we will be stuck here for at least 2 days. If the helicopter flights become possible, those who have been in Sama for a long time, such as Asha and Andrew, who had already arrived here a day before us, would first be considered.
In addition, there would be 4 people in various camps on the mountain, who would first have to be saved before people could think of flights to Kathmandu.
So I had no choice but to tell you at home that I probably wouldn't be home on the weekend.
I know that such situations happen again and again in Nepal, I have actually witnessed this on every trip. Nevertheless, it surprised me once again. But what do you want to do about the weather? In the meantime, images of the snow-covered base camp appeared on social media. They had received about 20cm of fresh snow overnight. Now that I write this, 24 hours later, we are already at just under one meter. We're all glad we're down here, even though we're stuck. In the base camp, tents collapse under the heavy snow and some climbers are still waiting for their summit storm. Personally, I don't think that's such a good idea: if it already has one meter of fresh snow in the base camp at around 4800m, how much does it have on the rest of the mountain? And how the hell are you supposed to get safely through the ice fall, or from C3 to C4? The first to make these paths are the Sherpas. In my opinion, this is absolutely not safe for them and therefore you should let it be. In deep snow, with a heavy backpack on your back in perfect avalanche slopes? Nope, that doesn't sound right to me. I'm curious to see how this ends. There is a rumor that they are considering ending the expeditions because of the snow. Phunuru doesn't think that's going to happen. We'll see. Since breakfast on Friday, we have been sitting around in the teahouse and listening to the clocks ticking. I write on my blog, read, try to exchange messages in the shaky Wi-Fi and wait for better weather. In between we chat a bit, look out the window and eat our three meals a day, giving up breakfast, as I do in everyday life.
We try to stay positive, but I'm pretty shitty that we're stuck here. Anyone who has ever been stuck somewhere and just wants to go home can probably sympathize with us. After all, since yesterday Friday afternoon I have received the Nepalese SIM card, so that I am no longer dependent on the WLAN. But I stay a little on the stretch. I had left my adapter in Kathmandu and only the charging cable was with it. I relied on my power bank, which I charge with a solar panel. But if I sit around all day, I spend a lot of time on my mobile phone, iPad or ebook reader and you can't charge them indefinitely with the power bank. At the moment my phone is running at 13%, my iPad is dead and the ebook reader still has 40%. So soon I'm out of conversation. Fortunately, I still have 3 small puzzles with me, but then it's the end of the terrain. Because I have packed my pen and paper, as well as the Jass cards and cubes in the climbing bag and the way through the rain to the helipad is muddy and horrible and therefore not worth it in my opinion.
Before lunch, the rain had suddenly stopped and 3-4 rays of sunshine had strayed through the clouds for a few minutes. A helicopter pilot stranded here took the chance and flew to the base camp a few times. Actually, people urgently need to be flown out of Camp 2, but the cloud cover is too deep for that. We hope that at least rescues were possible in the Basecamp, but we don't know. According to the weather forecast, the rain should stop tomorrow morning and there should be some flying weather for a few hours. Whether the strike is over by then and we would be among the lucky ones, if flights are possible, however, is in the stars. I try to put up with it stoically, the situation doesn't change, even if I get upset. But I know, the longer the wait, the more laborious it becomes, not only for me. Fortunately, it's autumn holidays at home now, so I don't have to worry about school. But I would still like to see my loved ones again very soon and push them again, because I miss them a little after the 4 weeks ;) and if we would make it to Kathmandu tomorrow, it is not yet clear to which flight I can rebook my return flight. In the worst case, this is not possible and I am still stuck until the 6th. October here. But I just hope that it will come to that. I'm curious to see what else will happen in the next few days.
Sunday, 29.September - Samagaon - Kathmandu
Yesterday went through the stage without much noise. The helicopters soon remained on the ground again and our daily routine remained for the most part the same. We commuted from the dining room to the room and back again. Since I got cold feet at some point in the dining room, I got hot water for my bottle, for example, and went back to the room. There I put the bottle in the sleeping bag and at least slipped with my legs behind it. I read a little and tried to finish writing the blog with the last power reserves, which I fortunately succeeded. At shortly before 19h we met again for our dinner, which was similar to the previous ones: We ate fries with something. For me there were one more fried eggs and for the other two spring rolls. During the meal I was allowed to charge my phone a little with Dean's adapter, so that I was not completely on the digital dry. My goal was to talk to Raphael again in peace before going to bed so that he has a good start to the weekend. Of course, I filled my bottle again with hot water before going to bed. Sleeping in a sleeping bag is so much more pleasant when the sleeping bag is already preheated by a bottle. Fortunately, the connection was very good this time, so that making phone calls was a blessing again. You didn't have to restart the connection every 3 minutes and you could have a fluent conversation. Thus, the basis for a good fall asleep was laid. I was hoping that this would be my last night in the sleeping bag.
The next day, on Sunday, I woke up as usual shortly after 6h in the morning. As usual, I stayed for a moment. From outside, rather brighter light penetrated through the window, which gave me the hope that the weather outside was actually better than the days before. So I peeled myself out of the sleeping bag and lo and behold: I was waiting for me with tiny clouds on the horizon. In the dining room I met the other three, who were already diligently eating their breakfast. Since I don't usually eat breakfast at home and only do it on expeditions because I have to, I didn't order breakfast. That's why the others didn't want to wait until 8h, which is no problem for me. In contrast, I took our order list. On this, all the amounts of meals that we had distorted since our return to Samagaon had to be noted. Dean helped me with this and after a short time we had the amount together: 47'400 rupees, which is equivalent to approx. 300 francs. So we had spent so much on 4th, respective with the dinner of the Sherpas, in 4 days. Not a lot, considering that we've been sitting in the dining room all day and constantly consuming something.
After that, Phunur gave us the order to pack our duffles so that we would be ready for a flight. We heard the helicopters buzzing around since the early hours of the morning. Of course, the rescue flights were still the priority. Phunuru spent the next few hours on the helipad or near the locals. Because with one of the first helicopters from Kathmandu, 2 government representatives flew to Sama to bring the locals the agreements in writing. Phunuru told us at breakfast that he expects everything to be under wraps at about 12h. Since the flight time from Kathmandu is around 50 minutes, he would expect the first helicopters after 13h. This is what I had in mind when I went to my room after breakfast to pack my duffle. I took my time, because until 13h it was still more like 4.5h. When I was done, I decided to sit in the sun in front of the room and listen to music. After a while, Asha and Andrew suddenly stood in front of me, staying in the teahouse opposite. They wanted to take me to their sun terrace, which I thought was a great idea. I spent the next 2 hours there, chatting with various mountaineers from different countries. I had already seen most of them at Basecamp and some of them had already spoken to them there. When everyone slowly made their way to the dining room to order lunch, I also went back to my teahouse to see what the situation was and to order food. JC and Dean were ready for the order. Normally, the process of ordering takes a long time until the food is delivered and today was no exception. We waited almost 1.5 hours until we had our fries and spring rolls on the table. We actually always stuck to the same 4 dishes, because these are really fine and we knew that they would not cause us any digestive problems. While we were eating, Phunuru came to us from the helipad and also treated himself to something to eat, namely a nice plate full of steamed momos. After that he organized 2 boys who had to carry our dufflebas to the helipad. It actually seemed that we were much closer to our flight than we thought in the morning. I sat back in front of my room to enjoy more sunbeams.
Less than 10 minutes later, Phunuru was standing in the doorway and said that we should slowly move to the helipad. Of course we didn't let ourselves be told twice and only 2 minutes later we were ready for the 5-minute walk. I still didn't believe we were really going to fly, but we've never been so close. My feet only survived the river crossing to the helipad wet, but I thought that this would not matter in Kathmandu. I hadn't tied the shoes, and a stone was wobbly than expected... Shit happens.. When we arrived on the helipad, we saw how much hustle and bustle actually reigned here. There are 2 pads and with both duffle bags piled up, people sat around, material was deposited for the teahouses and from time to time a salvation came, or flew away. You can practically sit on the pad and wait until the helicopter comes. We sat there for 1.5 hours until it was clear that it was our turn at the next landing helicopter Everest Heli. 2 minutes before suddenly 3 important-looking people were on the pad and everyone, including Phunur, was discussing wildly. To me it looked as if the three wanted to get into the next helicopter, exactly the helicopter that was actually reserved for us. Since there is room for 5 people per flight, a Westerner from CTSS was also planned. When the helicopter was about to land, Phnuru put our duffles ready, which reassured me a little. But as the door of the passenger, or co-driver (or what do you call this seat next to the pilot in the helicopter?) Became free, one of the three important people simply sat down in the square. The three of us looked at Phunuru in bewill and he said to us that he would let us fly alone, and came after and sent us to the helicopter. There was nothing left to see from the westerner of CTSS at that time and we were already hoping that Phunuru could take his place. But far from it, the gentleman was just peeing briefly, or maybe on the way back to the village. But they whistled him back and put him in the helicopter. Shortly after, we took off and could only wave to Phunuru. At that moment, I couldn't really be happy that we were really in the air in the helicopter, because our leader was still down on the pad. But what should we have done? Somehow we didn't want to do without the flight and wouldn't have been able to. Because as it turned out, we were in the very only helicopter that flew directly to Kathmandu. All the other helicopters, which were already on the road before, had all only flown to Sodikola (the place where we had to wait a few hours under the bridge on the outward flight). But we flew directly to Kathmandu, because our pilot was no longer allowed to fly and had to bring the helicopter back to the capital. The flight there took about 45 minutes and once again showed us fantastic views. At the annex Jurassic Parc moderate, then with more clouds, but also more horizons with various valleys and at the end an overflight over Kathmandu, including temples. of the floods, which we had read in the media, there was not much to see on the flight. Obviously, the damage was more in the southern part of the city. At approx. 16.15h we actually landed in Kathmandu at the airport. The air was much more humid than in Sama and much warmer. We had to wait a few more minutes at the landing site until a car picked us up and took us to the terminal. On the way, the important man was unloaded from the side pilot's seat at the VIP room according to his status. It turned out that he was one of the 2 members of the governing who had appeased the locals.
Although I was grateful to him for his work, because without it we might not have seen a single flying helicopter today, I was still angry with him because he had taken away Phnuru's place in the helicopter. He tried to make a little small talk while waiting, but I just ignored him and Dean and JC had mercy on him. At the terminal, the officer wanted our passports, and we panicked a little because we didn't have them with us. JC and Dean at least had a copy of it. I had nothing until it occurred to me that I had emailed a photo of my sister's passport at home before departure. It took approx. 10 minutes until I could load this file on my phone, and so our departure at the terminal was delayed a bit. Mohan was already there to pick us up. We were able to take our trekking duffle with us in the helicopter, so we only had half of our material with us. We hope that the Kltter-Duffles would then follow with Phunuru. The drive to the hotel was in the middle of commuting traffic, which is why it took a little. But we were just happy that we had actually made it to Kathmandu. In the morning I would not have bet 5 francs on it. This time we reside at the Hotel Tibet because we wanted that. The rooms are much bigger and cleaner and the showers are also better. Upon arrival, AngJanbu, Phunuru's brother, was already waiting for us to welcome us and give us our original passports. We had stored these with other things with him until the return. After that we went to the room, where we all enjoyed a warm, long shower. At 19h the three of us met on the roof terrace for dinner. Phsnuru plans to fly to Kathmandu tomorrow with one of the first helicopters, ideally with our remaining duffles. Only when all the material is here, we can postpone our return flight home. I hope for the flight on 30.9. or 1.10. and I'm curious to see which one it will be. After dinner we went to the room, all three full of anticipation of the first night without a sleeping bag for 3.5 weeks.
Tuesday, 1.October - Kathmandu
For the first time on this expedition I'm writing the blog in English, instead of German. So If you think it's written differently, it's because it's not translated by AI. After Ama I knew, there will be a time when my brain starts to transform into thinking in English. This happend the past week, so whenever I was thinking about what to write on my blog, english sentences appeared. It took my brain a week longer this time. I guess it's because the group was smaller and there were some conversation breaks every now and then, which all of us were comfortable with. Can't wait the german translation from AI...
The three of us slept very well on the first night in Kathmandu, even if I had problems to fall asleep at first. Like on a normal day, I woke up around 6 in the morning and enjoyed the bed for another hour. After that I went downstairs for breakfast and met Dean and JC who already finished the meal. We were talking a bit and decided to go to Everest Outfit store to get the last shopping done. We didn't hear from Phunuru yet, so we were hoping he could already catch a bird to fly to Kathmandu. Right before we were moving out of the hotel, he wrote us that he found a place in the helicopter. We were happy to hear coz it felt weird to be in Kathmandu without the Boss. After leaving the Everest Outfit store, JC and I headed to the real touristy city center to do more shopping. Dean doesn't like shopping at all, so he carried our freshly bought stuff to the hotel and enjoyed a cake or 2 at the cafe there.
JC was eager to find some stickers, but joined me to buy a carpet first. He liked the size of it, so he joinged me buying a small Manaslu carpet to bring home. After that he really was done with shopping, but still had to find stickers. Seems like I looked too excited to shop the whole day, so we separated at some point so thet he could go back to the hotel after finding stickers. I went to look for the story, Stu, Justin and I bought some nice paintings last year. As I'm a genious in remembering streets, restaurants and stores in Thamel, it only took me 10 minutes to finde the tiny 2 square meter-shop. The guy still rememberd the three of us from last year (we bought about 12 paintings and spent almost an hour in the shop last november and we promised to come back). He offered me a very good prize this time and I really appreciate it. I'll be back for sure as he has so many nice paintings of Everest in hundreds of different sizes. Aber that I decided that it's time for an other massage. So I went to the Seeing hands office to treat myself with some relaxation. I hoped for some good news about the return of Phunuru and the rest of our duffles after the hour-long massage. The good news was, that Phunuru had safely arrived to Kathmandu and had sent our duffles ahead on one of the first helicopters. The bad news is, that the pilot unloaded the duffles in Sokikhola, which is halfway in betweem Sama and Kathmandu. So he had to organise that they will be loaded on a bus to get them to Kathmandu soon. I decided to change my flight anyways as I didn't wanna wait another day to do so. I was 100% the duffles would arrive in time. So I chatted with my sister to get the change done. Thankfully I gave her all the papers already before leaving, so she didn't have any problems to change my flight onto the next day at night. Then I continued to shop for some postcards and magnets and returned back to the hotel, where I met Dean having just another piece of cake. I had stopped in a suppermarket to bring some of the beloved Pringles and he seemed to love this fact.
After some time I returned to the room, to unpack and repack my trekking duffle.
They checked the weight on the helipad and it has been 13.7 kg. So I knew I can add some more things without it being too heavy
I could also reach out to my friend Claudine to have a nice phone call. It was my fourth try and finally she had time to pick up the phone :). We chose to have dinner on the rooftop again, the food is just delicious and the view great. We didn't really vary our order, we had chicken satay, fries and I ate the same salad again. I can't wait to cook my own food again, so that it tastes exactly the way I'm used to. But this food was perfect to shorten the waiting time. Since all of us got up pretty early, we left the rooftop at half past 8pm to go to sleep.
The next day - which is today - everyone woke up early again, I came to breakfast late so that JC was already back to the room. Dean was more quite than usual and it turned out he got bad news: A friend of him died while climbing/hiking in Colorado before our summit rotation and his wife only told him this morning to not upset him before the climb. He was the same age and just didn't return from his dayhike. We had a short cry together and it was hard to see him struggling to deal with these devastating news. For me it sows how lucky we can call us to come home safely after our climb. So little needs to go wrong to have a huge impact. The mountains give, the mountains take, that's all I could think. We were so lucky and Manaslu gave us so much, and it's just hard to believe that we were just on the right side of this thin line. I cried for all the ones who weren't as lucky as we were. I cried for Deans friend, his family, I cried for the grandmother of Raphael who died this Sunday, for the soulmate of a friend who took a break on a skitour on an instable snowbridge on a glacier. I cried for all the unlucky souls who went to the mountains/nature because that's what they love and just didn't return back. All of them will be missed and loved forever by their loved ones. And I for sure am with all the climbers still being on Mt.Manaslu to get their shot to climb it after the heavy snowfall last week.
I hope Dean will find a way to find closure with the situation and that he will be able to attend the funeral.
After breakfast I had to go back to Thamel to get another small dufflebag for my brother. After that I went to the fire&ice restaurant one last time in 2024 to enjoy a Banana shake. After that I returned to the hotel, coz Phunuru warned us he'll be back in the pack in the morning. He was already there when I arrived and it was nice to catch up on what happened the past day. He managed to get a seat in one of the early helicopters, and could enjoy the rest of the day with his family. I also finished packing my bags and checked out right in time. After that we had lunch together and at 2.30pm Mohan arrived to bring me to the airport. We have planned plenty of time to drive there and check-in but the streets weren't that busy and the airport was calm too. So it only took me 50 minutes from the hotel to the airport lounge. I could enjoy the quite before the flight and even thought we departed 40 minutes late, I enjoyed the whole flight with some food and 2 interesting documentaries. Now I'm sitting in the lounge at the airport in Doha. Still an hour to wait till I can board my second plane. I can't wait to be back in Switzerland, even thought this month was full of excitement and joy. Home is home and I just can't be away from home too long. I try to summarize the whole trip within the next days, but I still need some days to realize what I achieved and I'm also curious about the bare numbers of the climb.
But first I'll find out, if the german translation of this blog entry is useful or not ;)
Tuesday, 8.Oktober - Home is where your heart is
Now I've been back home for not quite a week and I'm trying to find myself back in everyday life. I'm so glad I arrived in the middle of the autumn holidays, so I still have enough time to arrive. But I don't really see myself going back to everyday school from Monday.
The second flight on my return trip was an absolute highlight. We left about 20 minutes later than planned, but I was actually lucky enough to be able to enjoy a Q suite. If you have ever flown with Qatar, you may have already been able to examine Business Class. Usually you sit on larger armchairs, which you can convert into a full bed. The screen is a little bigger than in the Eco and the food is much better. The Q-Suite is even more. You have a door that you can close so that you are on your own. You get a pajama to sleep better. The flight attendant sets up the bed with an additional thin mattress, and a slipper is available for going to the toilet. It was almost a bit of a shame that the flight only took 6 hours and I actually wanted to sleep through most of the flight. So I slept a little less, but still got out with a big smile. When I was at the luggage belt, my bags were already making their rounds and the small detours on the way home to Basel to say hello were all great. So I didn't get home until the early evening, but what the hell. I then tried to clean up the climbing duffle before going to bed, so that all wet things could finally dry. My apartment looked more like a bazaar, but at least I could save everything from mold. The next day I had already had an appointment for lunch with a good friend, after all the lost 5-6 kilos have to be regained as soon as possible. In the afternoon I then went to the big laundry and arranged all the things in the cellar again, so that in half a year I might be a little faster in packing.